
One Departure Only: February 15 – March 6, 2010: Join Zegrahm Expeditions on this unique Indonesia cruise aboard the Clipper Odyssey. From Port Moresby, the capital of Papua New Guinea, we travel to Ashmore Reef, across the Torres Strait to Thursday Island, and enjoy two full days of exploration in the Asmat. Snorkeling and diving off the Raja Ampat Islands reveals 75 percent of all known coral species and over 1,220 types of reef fish. After stops in Kokas, Misool, and Ternate we cross the Sea of Maluku to investigate the waters of Bunaken National Marine Park. Our expedition ends in Manado, Sulawesi.
February 15 & 16
Board your independent flight to Australia and cross the International Date Line en route to Australia, losing a day.
Wednesday, February 17
Arrive in Brisbane in the morning, check in at our hotel, and enjoy the rest of the day at leisure. This evening join us for a welcome dinner; overnight at our hotel.
February 18
This morning we fly to Port Moresby; time permitting we visit the National Museum and Arts Center, exhibiting one of the finest collections of primitive art in the world, including Sepik River carvings. This afternoon board the Clipper Odyssey and set sail westward into the Coral Sea.
February 19
Ashmore Reef, a fully submerged reef, extends across the northernmost end of the Great Barrier Reef like a string of living pearls. The vast atoll-like ring encloses a deep and open lagoon where a diversity of marine life flourishes. We make an expedition stop here today, our first snorkel and dive foray, to explore this rich marine environment.
February 20
Australia’s northernmost point, Thursday Island lies in the strategic Torres Strait which separates New Guinea from Australia. Settled in the late 19th century, its early fame rested on pearling by Japanese fishermen. During WWII, Australian and American troops were stationed at the base here. We explore the small sleepy town and take in the sweeping view from Gr
February 21
Enjoy a relaxing day as we sail into the Arafura Sea toward the western coast of New Guinea. Our lecture series introduces us to the natural and cultural attributes of Indonesia.
February 22
Ten thousand square miles of mangrove forest, bamboo, and sago palms have long sheltered the Asmat region from outsiders. We wait for high tide and enter the shallow channel of the Flamingo River to anchor for the night near the village of Agats, the regional capital of the Asmat.
February 23 & 24
A remote riverine world is revealed as Zodiacs carry us along narrow waterways lined with the entwined branches of thick mangrove forests, home to Torres Strait imperial pigeons, sulphur-crested cockatoos, and bright red lorikeets.
As we make our way upstream, villagers—whooping and chanting in elaborate warrior gear and war paint—paddle vigorously toward us in intricately carved canoes. We are escorted to Agats, one of our village stops, where enthusiastic welcomes await. A walk along elevated wooden boardwalks leads to the cathedral with its superb carvings, and the museum with its elaborate displays of ancestor poles, drums, body masks, shields, daggers, and skulls, reminding us that cannibalism was practiced by the ancestors of some villagers.
Asmat culture is noted for its remarkable ritual objects. The people believe that humanity began with Fumeripits the Creator who carved humanlike figures and brought them to life by beating on a drum. The villagers honor this belief by carving many of their own everyday items—bowls, spears, paddles, and shields. The artistic themes are based on an intriguing interpretation of life and death, and many of the carvings resemble recently-deceased relatives. Asmat woodcarvings are known for their powerful lines and coarse, expressive motifs, and are widely considered by collectors and scholars to be among the world’s finest. With our anthropologist helping us to communicate we have the opportunity to purchase carvings directly from village artisans.
February 25
This afternoon we drop anchor off Aiduma Island for snorkeling and diving in the aquamarine waters. Dazzling soft coral “forests” teem with colorful reef fish, including dinner plate-sized blue-ring angelfish, six-bar angelfish, large-striped sweetlips, butterfly cod, and lionfish.
February 26
Spectacular Mommom Peninsula is covered in forest often veiled in wisps of cloud. A strong river empties into the sea as a beautiful waterfall and, if tides permit, we may land on a small nearby beach. Snorkeling and diving this morning reveal huge and colorful soft corals fed by channel passes teeming with unique fish, including archerfish and batfish. In the afternoon we visit Karas Island, enjoying a walk through its small villages.
February 27
A breathtaking coastline of natural bays, tiny islets, pristine rain forest, and soaring mountains surrounds MacCluer Gulf. Dozens of local seafaring tribes populate the shores. In the morning Zodiacs weave among clusters of mushroom-shaped limestone islets where rock ledges protect outstanding displays of ancient Papuan rock art.
After lunch we go ashore to visit Kokas, strongly fortified by the Japanese during WWII, and today a prosperous fishing town of 3,000 residents. A unique cultural heritage presentation includes the traditional gabagaba, or stick dance. We return to the ship for dinner and continue sailing northward.
February 28 & March 1
Our ship sails the narrow channels between the islands off New Guinea’s northwestern tip known as the Bird’s Head Peninsula. More than 1,500 karst limestone islands off this coast make up the majestic archipelago of Raja Ampat, or “Four Kings,” named after its four main islands. Few outsiders have explored this remote region and UNESCO is considering it for World Heritage Site status. The marine environment here, known as the Bird’s Head Seascape, is heralded as the most biodiverse on earth and includes 75 percent of all known coral species and more than 1,220 types of reef fish. Recently, more than 50 species previously unknown to science have been discovered in the area.
During our time here several expedition stops offer the chance to explore part of this unsurpassed coral wonderland and the abundant marine life that calls it home. Birders go ashore to look for species such as the sulphur-crested cockatoo, beach kingfisher, varied honeyeater, spice imperial pigeon, and singing starling in the dense forests that line the passageway. Just off the Jerieff Islands snorkelers and divers have the chance to view two sunken Japanese bombers.
We also snorkel the great reef at East Apibok and explore the West Bay of Gam Island in the Dampier Strait by Zodiac. We visit the local village and school during an island walk.
March 2
One of the major Raja Ampat islands, Misool sits in the Ceram Sea surrounded by countless beautiful islets trimmed in ribbons of white sand. We spend the day here and enjoy the underwater scene—coral walls and pinnacles covered with sea life and we may encounter ghost pipefish, pygmy seahorses, and nudibranchs. The area is also known for its populations of giant clams. As we sail northward this evening we cross the Equator.
March 3
Tiny volcanic Ternate is situated just west of Halmahera. This North Maluku provincial capital was once, along with its neighbor Tidore, the only source of cloves in the world. Caught between the tug of the Dutch and Portuguese for its spicy riches, Ternate offers fascinating cultural and historical sights and we visit two impressive forts. After a stop at the local market, we enjoy a traditional cultural performance before returning to the ship.
March 4
The phenomenal biodiversity of Bunaken has been protected as a national park since 1991 and its crystal clear waters, with a visibility of 100 feet, offer some of the best snorkeling and diving in Indonesia. We spend the day here, exploring the stupendous reefs and drop-off walls adorned with a myriad of soft red and yellow corals. Dense schools of colorful blue-striped and yellow-tailed fusiliers are just one of the possible 100 species of fish we may spot here.
March 5
We disembark the Clipper Odyssey after breakfast and enjoy a brief tour of Manado, the capital city of North Sulawesi, visiting the open air produce market and the North Sulawesi Provincial Museum. Following lunch at a local restaurant, we transfer to the airport for an early afternoon flight to Singapore. Dinner and final overnight at our airport hotel. Those continuing on the next voyage return to the ship after lunch.
March 6
Depart on your independent flight to the USA arriving the same day.
Our trip was everything we had dreamed of and more! Zegrahm took us to places out of the mainstream, provided outstanding lectures & staff, great food, and an open bridge policy that expanded our appreciation of the journey.
We want to congratulate you for putting together such a fabulous Back to Africa trip with Lex Hes. We had a super, super time. Lex remains one of the nicest & most knowledgeable people we have ever traveled with. A great guy!
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