Itinerary

Days 1 & 2
Sunday & Monday

USA TO SANA’A, YEMEN Leave your hometown in the US, arriving in Sana’a on day 2. Everyone
will be met on arrival and transferred to our hotel.

Day 3
Tuesday

SANA’A We’ll spend a day exploring Sana’a, the
enchanting, 7200-foot high capital of the ‘Roof of Arabia’. A
designated World Heritage Site; the first and all subsequent
sights of Sana’a’s fantastic, beautiful architecture will astonish
you. Unique to Yemen and unchanged in style for 1000 years,
the tall, mud-brick and basalt tower houses are richly
decorated with white gypsum and pretty stained-glass
windows.
We’ll explore the maze of bustling alleys in Sana’a’s walled
Old City, one of the largest completely preserved medinas in
the Arab world. Like Fez in Morocco, Sana’a’s medina is a
sight in itself; packed with goods of all kinds from warm,
fragrant bread and excellent Yemeni coffee to flowing veils.
After lunch, we’ll wander deeper into the city’s wonderful
alleyways, stepping into mosques and busy suqs, catching
glimpses of lovely hidden gardens, and passing old hammams
and remnants of the ancient city walls. We’ll also visit the National Museum and, time permitting, the
Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts, both housed in tower palaces. This evening we enjoy a welcome
dinner in a local restaurant.

Day 4
Wednesday

SANA’A Today we’ll have continued
sightseeing in this rich city which offers
days of worthy exploration. We’ll
wander through the Jewish and Turkish
quarters then venture outside of the city
for an excursion to the village of Ar-
Rawda in the suburbs where among our
visits we’ll see the Mosque of Ahmad ibn
al-Qasim notable for its minaret
decorated with verses from the Koran. En
route back to Sana’a, we’ll stop at the
stunning rock palace of Wadi Dahr. A
wadi is a watercourse which is usually
dry until the rainy season – we’ll see
many of these in Yemen. Built for Imam
Yahya in the 1930’s, perched atop a tall crag, it is in many ways the archetype of all the fantasy and fortressy
nature of Yemeni architecture. This evening we’ll dine in a traditional fish restaurant.

Day 5
Thursday

SANA’A TO TA’IZZ This morning we set off south to the inland town of Ta’izz stopping in old
Dhamar en route. Dhamar, was founded by the legendary king of the Himyarites, Dhamar ‘Ali, whose
achievements included restoring the dam of Marib, a later stop on our journey. Lacking any defensive
structure the town sits among the plains and during our stay we’ll visit the 17th century Ottoman-style
square mosque and walk through the former Jewish Quarter. We’ll carry on to Radaa visiting its old town
and suq, noting how its houses made of stone and mud differ from the predominantly stone architecture
common to the central highlands. Radaa is also home to a spectacular mosque, the Al-Amiriya, which
stands in the town centre. It has a uniquely Yemeni design, and was built about 500 years ago by a
Tahirid sultan. The mosque is no longer in use, which means we can easily wander through the restored
building. The building's grooved cupolas are particularly beautiful.
We continue toward Ta’izz, and stop briefly in the village of Bayt al-Ashwal, a small living museum
made up of 200-year old and quite high houses adorned with inscriptions and sculptural elements. We
arrive in Ta’izz and enjoy dinner at our hotel.

Day 6
Friday

TA'IZZ This morning we head to the top of Jabel Sabir, from which, if the weather allows, we’ll be
rewarded with extraordinary views of Ta’izz and the surrounding valley. In Ta’izz, we’ll visit the
beautiful 13th century al-Ashrafiya Mosque. Since it is no longer in active use we, as nasranis (Christians,
or non-Muslims) can see inside. We also visit the former Palace of the last Imam, Ahmad; now a museum
intended to showcase the decadence of the royal system, but perhaps more resembling a dusty curiosity
shop. A fascinating and odd place, said to look exactly as it did when he died, it is a relic of the feudal
ruler whose injuries from a would-be assassin’s bullet (according to the museum’s information) ‘resulted
in taking a lot of tranquilizers and morphine which ended his life in the most fabulous and mythical
manner.’ The ancient medical equipment and wheelchairs suggest a less happy demise.
This afternoon we’ll visit the souk – one of the best in Yemen for traditional silver items, locally-grown
coffee, as well as a particularly pungent smoked cheese! There are other items such as spices; cardamom
pods, cinnamon sticks, pepper, and cloves, frankincense burners and rose water sprinklers.

Day 7
Saturday

TA’IZZ AND ZABID We’ll begin the day with a visit to the nearby village of Wadi Dhabab for its
weekly country market and then continue to the historic town of Zabid, known for its unusual whitepainted
architecture hidden behind private walls. Zabid is the third of Yemen’s World Heritage sites.
Yemen was one of the first places to adopt Islam and did so even during the lifetime of the Prophet. The
founding of the town of Zabid, its first mosque and university is attributed to Mohammed ibn Ziyad. The
university became a center of learning in the Muslim world known principally for its schools of Islamic
law, philosophy, poetry, grammar, history and mathematics – indeed the word algebra comes from the
Arabic, al-jabr, after a system taught here by a teacher here called al-Jaladi. We’ll have lunch here and
spend some time exploring the town. Today we’ll also visit the bronze age site of al Hamili, and wander
through the old coffee port of Mokha on the Red Sea, before returning to Ta’izz for the night.

Day 8
Sunday

TO SANA’A VIA JIBLA This morning we return north to the capital Sana’a stopping at the pretty
mountain town of Jibla. This is fertile countryside which receives most of Yemen’s rainfall, and the green
terraces reflect its nickname of the “Green Land of Arabia.” Jibla is home to the mosque and tomb of
Queen Arwa, the only female leader in the history of Islamic Yemen, who ruled from 1067 when her
husband died, until her own death in 1138 at age 92. Queen Arwa was a well-educated and wise ruler, and
was responsible for developing much of the agricultural terracing we see around us. As we walk around
the town see the little mosque of Qubbet (Dome) Bayt az-Zum with its old whitewashed dome and redbrick
minaret decorated with the white ‘goss’ found all over Yemen. The old town of Ibb is very historic -
the Imam’s rule here was particularly strong and as such it had little external contact with the outside
world. A walk around town will reveal some beautiful old carved doors and doorways, typical of the
region. We arrive in Sana’a in time for dinner.

Day 9
Monday

EXCURSION TO MANAKHA AND AL-HAJARAH Today will be spent exploring the fortified
hilltop villages of Manakha, Al Hajarah and Bayt Al Amir, all perched within the picturesque Haraz
mountains, once a refuge for descendants of the Sulayhides of the Ismaili Shi’ite sect. Located 125
kilometers west of Sana’a, Manakha sits at just over 7000 feet in the midst of a lovely terraced field. The
village is home to an important regional market. Continue through the mountains to the picturesque stone
village of Al-Hajarah, a living museum to local architecture, not open to vehicular traffic. Notice the
striking stained glass on many of the homes. The architecture in each of these villages does vary some
from different building materials used – stone, earthenware, brick, even cob – to the combination of
decorative elements and unique ornamentation. Further afield nestle the tiny villages of Bayt al Amir,
Husn al Haimy and Jumah which we will also visit before returning to Sana’ for the night.

Day 10
Tuesday

TO AL-MAHWIT VIA KAWKABAN AND THULA This morning we drive in 4WD vehicles to
remarkable, ancient Thula, a walled town of perfectly-preserved stone tower houses. Thula’s mountaintop
fortress illustrates the defense system which has successfully protected Yemen from invaders for centuries.
We continue to the village of Kawkaban, dramatically perched on the very edge of an inaccessible 1000-
foot cliff top. So well-defended was it that Kawkaban was only subdued by the government in the 1960s
when that could be done from airplanes. The town’s huge iron gates are still locked at night. Below on
the valley floor lies the village of Shibam which is connected to Kawkaban by a steep trail, which we’ll
walk down.
Next we continue further into Yemen’s rugged mountain regions, driving upwards through dramatic,
cloud-wisped mountains to a little country town called al-Mahwit, before checking into our comfortable
inn for the night.

Day 11
Wednesday

DAY HIKE FROM AL-MAHWIT, RETURN TO SANA’A We will spend the morning exploring this
mountain region, with, time permitting, an opportunity to hike on mountain terraces through this
breathtaking scenery. Craggy peaks and sheer cliffs are dotted all over with small villages and fortresses,
each a showcase for Yemen's fantastic architecture; which, as we’ve been observing in the course of our
travels, varies from region to region. Little goat-herdesses tend their flocks on the mountainsides, and
like all the locals, are pleased to meet us as we pass by.
En route back to the capital, we will stop in Wadi Al-Lahjur where we drive over the track which runs
through the wadi bottom; past little streams, cows, and women working in the pastures.

Day 12
Thursday

SANA’A TO MA’RIB This morning we set off down the mountains across the desert for Ma’rib. The
province of Ma’rib lies on the southern edge of the Rub al-Khali; the ‘Empty Quarter’ - so inhospitable
that its huge burning vastness is shunned by most living things, and even the desert-skilled Bedouins are
reluctant to enter. Until a few months ago, official boundaries had never been drawn across it between
Yemen and its northern neighbor, Saudi Arabia.
This is Bedouin country, and in parts of the province tribal, rather than governmental rule is the norm.
Here too in the desert are the oil fields which promise to boost the Yemeni economy, and which have
been the source of contention between the Bedouins and the government. Yet it was here in the desert that
Saba, ancient Arabia’s most magnificent realm, flourished. Founded before the dawn of written history, in
around 1000 BC, Saba’s greatness was seeded by the construction of the Great Dam of Ma’rib in the 8th
century BC. This remarkable feat of early engineering, the ruined sluice gates of which we visit, turned
the desert into a green oasis which supported a population of 30,000 to 50,000 people for more than a
thousand years. The palm-shaded capital of Ma’rib, strategically located on the important Frankincense
Route, grew to affluence under the fortuitous alliance between Saba’s (Sheba’s) famous queen, Bilquis,
who controlled the southern end of the trade route; and King Solomon, who controlled the northern. At its
height, Ma’rib’s fame spread as far as Rome and India; but after a thousand years of use the Great Dam
was finally weakened beyond repair, and with it faded the kingdom.
Today, thanks to the construction of a new dam the desert is greener again, while perhaps paradoxically
the region is regenerating due to the discovery of oil in the area.

Day 13
Friday

MA’RIB Yemen’s most famous archeological ruins lie partly covered by the sands around Ma’rib, and
we’ll visit the Sabaean Temple of the Moon and Temple of Bilquis, both of which hint at much
fascination once they are properly excavated. We also visit the Great Dam, whose Sabaean and Himyarite
inscriptions describe the repairs made to it. The New Dam is an impressive modern contrast.
For those who may wish to relax before the long desert drive, our hotel has a swimming pool, and a
relaxing terrace. Around sunset we’ll visit the near-ghost town of Old Ma’rib. Set on a tiny hill in the
desert, the town was badly bombed during the civil war of the 1960s, but its mud-brick skyscrapers,
haunted mostly by goats and a few local children, are still impressive.

Day 14
Saturday

MA’RIB TO SEIYUN, ACROSS THE RAMLAT AS-SABATAYN DESERT Today’s journey is
long, adventurous and dramatic. Rising very early to take advantage of the cool of the early morning, and
accompanied by Bedouin guides whose knowledge of the desert we need, we set off under the stars.
Before long we say goodbye to the road (it will be 265 miles before we see another one) and turn off into
the desert sands. Flares from the oil fields can be seen leaping orange in the night and as dawn breaks,
large pink dunes become visible around us. From the dunes we progress to flatter terrain and scrub begins
to appear. In the distance we’ll see mountains, and birds wheeling and darting about.
After 4-6 hours we’ll come across the ancient site of Shabwa, where we stop to explore its unexcavated
temple ruins and salt pits. The silence is massive, the sky huge. It’s rare in our modern world to be so far
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from even a road or water; and humbling for us to experience nature unopposed, as earlier travelers
always had to do. Here, so far from anything, we are reminded how small we really are.
Nearby we may come across Bedouin tents or perhaps spy their camels. If we are invited, we’ll stop for
tea in a cool tent, a chance to learn a little of this remote, rugged way of life the Bedouins continue to
prefer over any other. En route too we may see beehives - the Bedouins collect honey as well as mine the
salt at Shabwa. We’ll have a picnic lunch on the way. After 7-11 hours in total, we leave the desert and
meet the road, where we stop for a welcome cup of tea. From here, we say goodbye to our Bedouin
guides who, amazingly, will recross the desert immediately, and continue for an hour more to our hotel.

Day 15
Sunday

SEIYUN, TARIM & SHIBAM We are now in Wadi Hadhramawt, a comparatively lush 220-mile wadi
which until 1967 was part of the British South Arabian Protectorate, a collection of 31 small sultanates with
Aden at its center. In 1967 the British were ousted by nationalist forces and Yemen effectively split into two
countries: the Yemen Arab
Republic in the north and the
Marxist-controlled People’s
Democratic Republic of Yemen in
the south. Perhaps against the
odds, the two countries reunited in
1990.
Separated by landscape as well as
economy, regional customs,
ethnic mix, and for a long time,
their governments; northern and
southern Yemen are very
different. Hadhramawt is known
for its mud-brick architecture, and
its palaces - many Hadhramawtis
migrated to Indonesia and
Malaysia for work, and returned to build large palaces with a distinctly Southeast Asian look to them.
Here too we’ll see Somalis, Ethiopians and Indians, as well as Yemenis of mixed Southeast Asian blood.
Men tend to wear Indian rather than Yemeni sarongs, known as futas, and since it was outlawed during
the PDRY years, no djambiya, the traditional curved dagger worn in the north. Women can be seen in the
fields swathed in black, with tall straw conical witches’ hats on top of their veiled heads.
Seiyun is the unofficial capital of Hadhramawt, and being on a major caravan route has an excellent suq
selling frankincense, myrrh and antique silver, as well as everything else. We’ll visit the Kathiri Sultan’s
former palace, now a small interesting museum, and continue to Tarim, a nearby town known for its
southeast Asian-style palaces and its tall mosque. Here we also visit the al-Ahqaf Library, a collection of
14,000 ancient Islamic books and manuscripts from the region.
After lunch we drive to Shibam, nicknamed the ‘Manhattan of the Desert’. The first sight of Shibam
never fails to impress - the old walled town of mud-brick skyscrapers seems just to rise up out of the
desert. The tallest house here has 8 stories, and the rest are almost as high; 500 skyscrapers are squeezed
into a tight space enclosed by the city walls. Connecting terraces are built at the upper levels of the
houses so neighbors who want to visit each other don’t have to go all the way downstairs, outside, and
then up again. Shibam was already the capital of Wadi Hadhramawt by 300 A.D, and many of these
lovely mud-brick houses date from the 16th century. Goats roam and children play in the narrow alleys,
and traditional craftsmen carve wood outside their houses together. Towards sunset we can climb the hill
opposite for a wonderful view of the town in the lowering pink sun.

Day 16
Monday

SEIYUN THROUGH WADI DOAN TO AL-MUKALLA We set off this morning on a stone track
through the picturesque villages set in the dry canyon which is Wadi Doan. Here too we’ll see many of
the grand painted houses of returned Hadhramawtis, in dramatically located villages such as 1000-yearold
al-Hajjarayn. After about 5 hours we leave the wadi and climb up onto an arid plateau track,
continuing over this and down to the Gulf of Aden, and our hotel overlooking the glittering sea.

Day 17
Tuesday

AL-MUKALLA, RETURN TO SANA’A Al-Mukalla is an attractive, exotic blue and white port set
right below the mountains fronting the Gulf of Aden. As the terminus for the pipeline originating in the
new oil fields, the port is expected
to grow, but for now retains an air
of rustic, salt-swept lazy charm. In
the morning we’ll take a stroll
down to the beach near the local
fish market and watch as the
morning’s catch is unloaded from
brightly colored fishing boats. In
the suq we see the local women
out doing the day’s shopping - this
is a good spot to buy gold,
frankincense and myrrh. We’ll
also visit the local museum,
formerly the Sultan’s palace,
where there are views out over the
Arabian Sea, a room with
beautiful mirrors and glass, as
well as a small collection of local pottery and other objects dating back to the Sabaean and Himyarite
kingdoms. Another building of note is the quirky landmark of Yemeni architecture: a tiny customs house
built atop an overhanging crag.
Later this afternoon we fly back to Sana’a. We have our farewell dinner this evening accompanied by
local musicians.

Days 18 & 19
Wednesday & Thursday

SANA’A AND DEPART FOR THE USA We have some time for further explorations today before
transferring to the airport for our onward flight late this evening. Arrival in the US on the following day.
Geographic Expeditions’ arrangements end here.

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