Arblaster & Clarke Wine Tours have been arranging Wine & Opera trips for around 17 years now, and since the reopening after major renovation of La Scala in 2004 , have offered a series of independent opera breaks to the city. We have chosen this date due to the cast appearing in Romeo & Juliette, which includes rising star tenor Vittorio Grigolo and soprano Nino Machaidze.
La Scala was inaugurated in 1778 and was built on the site of a previous theatre that was destroyed by fire. Today it is seen as one of the leading Opera Houses of the world. There are always controversies happening at La Scala – usually between performers and management. There is the interesting Museo Teatrale alla Scala (Musuem) which is a ‘must’ visit for its history of the Opera House, fascinating opera documents and costumes worn by leading ladies including Maria Callas. Following the controversy of Riccardo Muti being forced to resign in 2005, the Principal Guest Conductor is Daniel Barenboim.
Milan is known more as a centre of business and fashion, rather than a weekend destination – yet there is a wealth of cultural interest to explore on your Opera holiday. The cathedral is one of the largest Gothic churches in the world. Many of the churches, which in themselves are fascinating architecturally, house works of art, including the most famous of all at the Santa Maria delle Grazie, where the monk’s refectory is home to Da Vinci’s truly magnificent Last Supper fresco. Museums include the Castello Sforzesco with a fine collection of furniture and art, including Michelangelo’s unfinished Rondanini Pieta sculpture. The splendid glass and metal domed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is near our hotel, and when you are not busy window shopping in the elegant shops, don’t forget to look at the wonderful mosaics and up at the dome.
Although one does not normally associate Milan with the vineyards, these are in fact easily accessible from Milan. To the west we taste in the little known region of Gattinara – where they make complex reds from the Nebbiolo variety. To the East is the wine region Franciacorta. This region produces the best of Italy’s sparkling wines, as well as some very attractive still wines.
You will meet your Wine Guide in the hotel reception and enjoy a light pre-opera supper at one of our favourite wine bars situated opposite the Opera House. Afterwards, we cross one small street to La Scala where this evenings performance begins at 20.00. Romeo & Juliette, written by Charles Gounod, based on the masterpiece by William Shakespeare was premiered in Paris in 1867. This classic tragic love story as an opera is most known for the aria “Je veux vivre”. This evening’s performance, sung in French, is a new staging of the production featured at the Salzburg festival.
Nino Machaidze takes the Soprano role of Juliette. Born in Georgia in 1983, she studied at La Scala and debuted in the Teatro de Roma. Her first appearance at the renowned Salzburg Festival was in the role of Juliette alongside Villazon, where her performance was described as “sensational”. The lead Tenor role of Romeo is sung by Vittorio Grigolo. Born in Arezzo but raised in Rome, this Italian tenor was trained in the Sistine Chapel where he was a soloist. When young he sang alongside Pavarotti which earned him the name “il pavarottino”. He became the youngest ever male performer to take a lead role at La Scala at just the age of 23. Grigolo appeared alongside Anna Netrebko in Manon at Convent Garden this spring and caused a sensation and one of the longest standing ovations we have ever seen since enjoying operas! He is widely now acclaimed as the most exciting tenor to have come out of Italy for a long time with his sweet but powerful voice.
After breakfast on the following day we leave Milan and head to the west for our two wine visits in Gattinara which is close to the border of Piemonte. Our first visit is to the historical cellars of Nervi, which date from the 1900s. Today they own 33 hectares of vines, a large amount of vines in the Gattinara region. Here we will taste their wines from the Gattinara DOCG to their single cru Gattinara Vigna Molsino.
We continue to the family run wine estate of Giancarlo Travaglini, which today is run by the granddaughter of the founder, Cinzia Travaglini. Following a visit to their cellars, we will enjoy their wines over lunch. (NB the lunch may be either at the cellars or at one of their favourite restaurants in the village). After lunch we return to Milan. Dinner this evening is non included but if you are not attending Attila, you are welcome to join the Wine Guide for dinner at the restaurant of their choice.
Verdi’s opera was based on the Play by Werner “Attila, King of the Huns”. It was premiered at La Fenice in Venice in 1846 and features the dramatic aria “E gettata la mia sorte”. The story is set in the middle of the 5th century in Aquileia and near Rome. Tonight’s performance is a new production by La Scala. The eponymous lead role is taken by Ferrucio Furlanetto. This Italian bass had his La Scala debut in 1979, where he sang in Verdi’s Macbeth. He is joined by the tenor Gianluca Floris in the role of Uldino, the Breton slave of Attila. The Soprano Odabella is sung by Micaela Carosi. Seen by many as one of the most important voices specialising in Verdi roles, she debuted in 2000 in Spoleto. Subsequently chosen by Zefferelli to perform Aida, a role she has reprised many times which has including winning her the revered “Abbiati” award. Tickets to the performance at La Scala this evening of Attila are optional and not included in the main tour price.
Next day we leave Milan for the east of the city to the Franciacorta Wine region, the premium sparkling wine region in Italy, and our first visit. Bellavista’s reputation as one of the leading producer of quality sparkling wines in Italy continue to grow. Under the control of winemaker Mattia Vezzola, these elegant and complex wines made in the traditional method are wonderful – even beating Bollinger in blind tastings! The cellars are truly impressive and their wines make a perfect introduction to the region. We continue nearby to the welcoming family run estate of Il Mosnel. It is one of the most respected estates in Franciacorta, where the Barzano family produce excellent wines from their 40 hectares of ideally situated vineyards, which are unusually located in one body of land. We taste these wines over a rustic lunch at the estate. After lunch we return to Milan.
This evening dinner is not included and you are welcome to join the Wine Guide or you are free to explore the many delightful restaurants of Milan, which is one of the very few places in Italy where not only Italian regional cookery is available but also those from other regions. We will send you before departure, our suggested restaurant list – many of which are suitable for their proximity to La Scala and the Hotel de La Ville – that we have enjoyed on our many visits to the city.
Today you can explore Milan and depart at leisure. Many of the churches, which in themselves are fascinating architecturally, house works of art, including the most famous of all at the Santa Maria delle Grazie, where the monk’s refectory is home to Da Vinci’s truly magnificent Last Supper fresco.
This tour is a lovely blend of wine and opera combined with a city break, with the added bonus of party size being strictly limited to only 16 participants, it will be a memorable tour. We hope you can join us!
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