Puglia: Italy's Undiscovered Coast 2011 (trip)

Puglia: Italy's Undiscovered Coast 2011

  • Bari, Italy
  • Active & Adventure
Italy, Europe

from $2,945* per person10 DaysApril-November
Comfort accommodations Exertion level: 3
Operator: VBT Bicycling Vacations 20 people max
Away from tourist masses, as easterly as you can go, a medieval stone village clings to a precipitous canyon. Crusty fisherman haul their catch for market day. Conical roundhouses known as trulli strike a curious pose on a cypress-dotted landscape. And share their magic with you. Best of all? Quiet costal roads here seem made for cycling, with breathtaking Adriatic views. And pleasing routes lead us to ancient masserias, fortified farms boasting five-star amenities. Join us...and you'll want to keep Puglia all to yourself.

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Locations visited/nearby

Italy, Europe

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Itinerary

Day 1 of BIKE TOUR All guests meet in Bari/Transfer to Savelletri

VBT No-Air Package guests: Meet your VBT Trip Leaders at 2 p.m. in the lobby of our first masseria. To get to the masseria, we suggest that you contact the hotel and ask for their shuttle. The shuttle is available at special rates for our guests, and must be booked in advance to avoid long waits. If your arrival at the masseria is scheduled later than 2 p.m., or if you are delayed, please contact the hotel and the staff will pass your message along to your VBT Trip Leaders. A taxi to the masseria from the Bari railway station is approximately 100 euros/$150 USD; from the Bari airport, the cost is approximately 110 euros/$165 USD. The hotel shuttle is available at a lower price, depending on how many guests share it. Please check with the hotel directly. Alternatively, you may consider traveling from Bari (or even Rome) by train. The closest railway station to the masseria is FASANO. Note that if you take a train from Rome to Fasano you may need to connect in Bari. Once in Fasano call the masseria to arrange for a taxi or shuttle pickup (approximately a 10-minute drive). In the event of delays or other problems with your arrival, please see page 3 of “For Travel-Related Emergencies.” VBT highly recommends flying to Italy at least one day before the tour begins; this allows you to rest and recover from jet lag before you begin sightseeing and cycling.

VBT Air Package and Pre-Extension guests: This morning continue exploring the surroundings on a self-guided walk, or maybe join in an optional cooking class organized by the Masseria. Meet your VBT Trip Leaders at 2:00 p.m. in the main lobby; they will be wearing VBT staff garments. Please plan to eat lunch before you meet them.

The Masseria Torre Coccaro, and its sister Masseria Torre Maizza, are 5-star deluxe resorts set alongside each other on the kind of historic fortified farms for which this region is known. “Masseria” is the local name for these large farms, which began to be fortified around the 16th century in areas around Brindisi, which was vulnerable to attacks by pirates and brigands. These fortified farms feature high boundary walls, angular towers, drawbridges and watchtowers. Inside the walls, families lived and worked with their own church, oil mill, cisterns for water, oven to bake bread, storage rooms for tools and hay, stables, and everything they needed to conduct a simple life. In a separate section, their padrone, or master of the farm, lived in a more comfortable house.

After meeting your VBT Trip Leaders, join them for a safety and bike-fitting session. Then take a short warm-up ride along quiet country roads past 800-year-old olive groves to Egnatia. Egnatia is the ancient Messapican (and later Roman) town built on the coast, testifying to the economic and military importance of this area through the 10th century. A short stop at the archeological museum of Egnatia allows you to see precious finds such as sculptures, jewels, funeral equipment and the particular pottery produced here, called “gnathia.”

Later, enjoy a welcome cocktail reception on the elegant hotel patio. Dinner is at the hotel restaurant and is prepared with local products and herbs produced on the farm.

Day 2 of BIKE TOUR Cycle to Savelletri and Monopoli

After breakfast we cycle along the coast on quiet roads, completely surrounded by ancient olive trees with interesting shapes. Puglia ranks first in Italy in the production of olive oil, wine, and hay, and second for tobacco and almonds. Continue to Monopoli, where you stop to visit the beautiful cathedral and the fish and fruit market. Spend free time here exploring and eating lunch on your own. Walk the maze of pedestrian streets in Monopoli's old city center and see why they make the city so intimate and unique.

In the afternoon cycle back along the coast, to your beautiful hotel. The options are many: Stop to swim at the private beach club, play golf on the 9-hole course, relax by the beautiful pool or get a massage at the Aveda spa center. Tonight, dinner is in the hotel restaurant.

Day 3 of BIKE TOUR Cycle to Ostuni

This morning, ride along the coast toward the whitewashed city of Ostuni. On your way, visit a fortified masseria that houses the Church of San Lorenzo and an oil museum. Built in the 17th century by the Cardinal Rocco, this farm hosts an interesting collection of ancient oil-making tools.

For lunch, we visit Armando and his wife, Rosalba, at Il Frantoio, a family-run masseria. The estate extends over 150 acres and includes a “secret garden” planted with orange and lemon trees, in addition to a well-preserved underground oil mill. Our hosts have collected many interesting gadgets over the years, from ancient dresses and hats to a gramophone and precious books. Each piece has its own story. Lunch is prepared using produce grown on the farm. Try a sampling of five different extra-virgin oils that Rosalba uses to flavor her focaccia, pickles, preserves, and delicious Laganari pasta. Afterward, shuttle or continue cycling to your hotel in Ostuni.

This evening, you are free to have dinner on your own, stroll Ostuni's narrow, whitewashed limestone streets. Admire the graceful towers, staircases, arches, balconies and carved doorways, many of which are adorned with colorful pots of flowers or garlic and tomato crowns left to dry in the sun.

Day 4 of BIKE TOUR Alberobello/The Itria Valley

This morning we shuttle to Alberobello in the Itria Valley, through a region dotted with trulli houses. A trulli is a unique type of building characteristic of this region, consisting of a cylinder topped by a large cone of local stones and assembled without any mortar. It is believed that trulli originated as storage sheds built for agricultural implements. Much later, they became dwelling places, with adjoining buildings added as families grew. Many trulli are still used and inhabited today, and some of their roofs show mysterious chalk marks, either to ward off the evil eye or to bless the house. The trulli of Alberobello in particular have been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After our visit to Alberobello, guided by a local expert, start cycling to Locorotondo, where you stop for lunch. In the afternoon, continue cycling mostly downhill through the gorgeous countryside, back to Ostuni. Tonight dinner is at a local trattoria: This unforgettable meal includes ancient medieval recipes, like black orecchiette pasta served in an edible bread dish.

Day 5 of BIKE TOUR Cycle to Otranto/Discover Otranto

Leave Ostuni and take a morning shuttle further south to discover another area of Puglia: Salento. Begin biking at Melpignano. In Curzi, notice the impressive quarries where big ivory sandstones (called chianche in the local dialect) are extracted for use in local construction. Continue your ride into a quiet park, shaded by big olive trees and old oaks, as you head toward the sea to Otranto. Lunch is on your own in Otranto, in one of the many simple fish restaurants or pizzerias.

After lunch, discover this picturesque sea town. Founded by the Greeks, Otranto is surrounded by great ramparts and walls. From late spring onward, its atmosphere is extremely lively with local craft studios selling clay whistles, baskets, hand-dyed fabric and ceramics. The city's highlight is certainly the huge, 800-square-meter floor mosaic representing the Tree of Life, created in the year 1163 by a monk in the Otranto cathedral.

After our visit, cycle flat country roads catching sight of menhirs and dolmens, a testament to the region's prehistoric past, and arrive at our last masseria. After settling in, you may want to swim or relax with a good book. Later tonight we shuttle to Otranto for dinner on your own at one of the many outdoor cafés or restaurants. If you prefer, opt for dinner at the hotel.

Day 6 of BIKE TOUR Discover the coast of Salento

After breakfast we set out on the best bike ride of the week. Starting in the interior of Salento, stop to visit a local host (the grandmother of one of our local Trip Leaders), who offers a demonstration of handmade sagne and orecchiette pasta and shares some of her sauce recipes. Then continue cycling on flat country roads and through little villages to the coastal town of Castro Marina. Relax on the way with a picnic lunch prepared by your Trip Leaders.

Continue on to Santa Cesarea, a quiet town set on the edge of the sea. Then follow the cliffs to the town of Porto Badisco, famous for its azure waters as well as the prehistoric Cervi Grottoes. In Porto Badisco, take time for a dip before resume cycling to Cape Otranto, the easternmost tip of Italy. We cycle back to the hotel in time to freshen up before a special farewell dinner at the masseria's restaurant.

Day 7 of BIKE TOUR Transfer to Lecce/Free day in city/VBT No-Air Package ends

VBT No-Air Package guests: After breakfast, transfer to the Brindisi airport, arriving at approximately 11:30 a.m. Important: Flight departures from Brindisi prior to 1:30 p.m. are not recommended; those departing earlier must make transfer arrangements at their own expense from the last hotel in Otranto to Brindisi (approximately 1½ hours). Taxi cost to the Brindisi airport is approximately 80 euros/$102 USD.

VBT Air Package and Post-Trip Extension guests: Transfer to the Hotel Patria Palace in Lecce, an elegant and centrally located 5-star hotel, arriving at about 10:30 a.m. With VBT Information Packet, including a self-guided city walk explore the many wonders of this wonderful Baroque city, called “the Southern Florence.” Lecce is rightly acclaimed as one of the capitals of the Baroque, a style which here has acquired unrivalled originality and exuberance, thanks to the skill with which local architects and stonemasons worked the soft, pink-tinged local stone called pietra dorata.

Explore Piazza Sant'Oronzo, the city's main square and the heart of local activities for centuries. The square is partly occupied by the Roman amphitheater and laced with charming, narrow streets. The gem of the city is Piazza Duomo, closed on three sides by the cathedral and two palaces belonging to the church. Though this is one of the largest squares in Europe, it has an intimate feel that invites a picnic lunch from a local bakery and people-watching. Tonight, dinner is on your own.

Day 8 of AIR PACKAGE Depart for U.S.

After breakfast, transfer to the Brindisi airport for your flight to Rome or your flight back to the U.S. VBT recommends that you check the transfer time in your “Transfer Reminder” the night before your flight. The transfer is prearranged with the reception desk and is prepaid by VBT.

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