The Alpine Ascents 4-Day Rainier Climb of the Emmons Glacier is great for climbers with prior experience on glaciers (and those who have completed self arrest training) who want a more relaxed climbing schedule that allows for an additional night to enjoy the mountain. The Emmons climb is more difficult than our Muir climb because this route is far less traveled and involves more overall elevation gain as well as mileage. We travel as a fully contained climbing expedition (4 guides & 8 climbers) carrying all our camping, cooking, & climbing kit, thus our pack weight is also significantly heavier (65lbs) than climber's packs on the Muir (40lbs) route. You should be comfortable carrying a 50-60 pound pack. One element of this route that distinguishes it from our Muir climb (& Kautz climb) is the average slope angle is less steep than the upper slopes of the other routes. There is also less rock crossed during this climb, making for an overall easier technical climb, as we ascend the glaciated slopes roped up in teams of 3 (2 climbers & 1 guide per rope depending on group size). A common remark from our past climbers is that they really enjoyed being able to spend the night at high camp after a long summit day. One of our most well-liked Rainier programs, you will encounter less people, climb more vertical gain, & travel further than our other Rainier climbing programs as you climb the largest glacier in the contiguous United States.
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Locations visited/nearby
Washington, United States, North America
Itinerary
The Day Before the Climb.
Climbers are required to arrive in Seattle the afternoon before our trip begins. That afternoon at 2:00pm you will be met at our office by a guide and our gear manager to give you an overview of the climb, answer all your questions and make sure you have all your equipment or rental gear necessary for the climb. The guide will also give you instruction in Leave No Trace (appropriate wilderness practices) and discuss the National Park Mission Statement. You will then return to your hotel for an early morning pick up on Day 1.
DAY 1
On the first day of the climb we meet at the Alpine Ascents Office at 6:00am, where we pack up the van and drive to Mount Rainier. We begin at the White River Campground (4,300'). We hike a few miles on a comfortable trail through the forest following the inter fork of the White River and reach Glacier Basin, a wide open meadow with great views of Rainier! From Glacier Basin we begin climbing steeper, snowy terrain up the Inter Glacier to our first camp at about 8,500' on the Inter Glacier. We build camp and enjoy stunning and expansive views. This allows us to acclimatize a little and have an easy move the following day. We will review walking on snow and ice, glacier travel skills, ice axe use, and learn breathing techniques that will assist us on our ascent.
DAY 2
We make a short move up to Camp Schurman (approx. 9,500') and establish our camp. This short day begins with a brief climb up the Inter Glacier & then onto the Emmons Glacier, and on to Camp Schurman. This brief day of climbing allows us to relax in the afternoon and get as much rest as possible before our summit attempt early the next morning. We also have ample time for more review of the glacier climbing techniques necessary for our summit day. At camp we discuss the summit climb in detail, enjoy dinner, and go to bed early as we anticipate our pre-dawn departure for the summit.Â
DAY 3
Summit day. For safety and better traveling conditions on the glacier, we begin with an early morning wake-up to get us very near the summit by sunrise. The summit climb should take 9 to 12 hours depending upon the speed of the group. We depart Camp Shurman and ascend the Emmons Glacier 'Corridor' which is a moderate sloped ramp to the upper slopes of the glacier. We will encounter a few crevasses & snow bridges that we must negotiate on our way to the top, as well as a mix of moderate and steeper snow terrain. Our pace is moderate and leads to a spectacular summit day. Weather permitting, we will take a brief break here to enjoy the view, snap photos and eat and drink to fortify ourselves for the descent back to Camp Schurman. Back at camp we relax, eat dinner, and rest for our final day on the mountain.
DAY 4
Descend to the trailhead. After we descend down off the Emmons glacier and onto the Inter Glacier, we may deem the conditions suitable to glissade individually down this moderate snow slope toward Glacier Basin. At this point we trade climbing boots for tennis shoes and finish our hike back to the White River Campground & parking area, then drive back to Seattle for a shower and a night of dining and celebrating.
This is an extremely rigorous four days and being in strong physical condition is mandatory. One day of skills review is included in the climb. Please note, the guide retains the right, at any point, to determine whether a climber is sufficiently fit to continue the climb.
More information from Alpine Ascents International:
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