Itinerary
Day 1-2
Tashkent
Today is an arrival day and no activities are planned, so you may arrive at any time. In the evening you meet your tour guide and the other group members for a pre-tour briefing. This is generally followed by an optional group dinner at a local restaurant. The national dish is ‘plov’, a mixture of rice, vegetables and bits of meat. It is something we are going to see a lot of on our journey! On Day 2, we enjoy a city tour on foot and by metro – taxis are optional and at your own expense. With most of its historic buildings flattened in an earthquake in 1966, the Tashkent we see today is a fine example of Soviet-era architecture and city planning. As the capital of Uzbekistan, this surprisingly green city contains many interesting examples of 1960s architectural styles and enjoys a cosmopolitan mix of cuisines and influences. The ancient heart of the city still beats in the shady squares and vibrant markets of the Old Town. Families still live in communities of courtyards and imams from the small medressas and mosques still call the faithful to prayer. Next to the Old Town and under the green dome of Chorsu Bazaar lies a farmers market that is one of the largest and oldest in central Asia. It is also a great place to buy Uzbek souvenirs including the ubiquitous skull caps. On a hill behind the bazaar is the 16th century Kulkedash Medressa – an Islamic school that sits beside the 15th century Juma (Friday) Mosque. Amir Timur Square is the main square in town and used to contain a statue of Karl Marx, but he has been replaced by a statue of Uzbekistan’s 14th century national hero, Timur, on horse-back. Tashkent’s metro system reveals to us some strikingly beautiful stations but please note that you are not permitted to take photos in the subway. If you would like to explore futher, then the Museum of the Applied Arts is a lovely place to wile away an afternoon. Alternatively, the Bara-Khon Medressa is the headquarters of the Sunni Muslim religion in the region and has interesting mosaics and Arabic calligraphy that dates back to the late 16th century. (B)
Day 3-5
Samarkand
We take a public express bus to Samarkand and enjoy free time in the afternoon to explore this city. Samarkand is a city that evokes the romance of the Silk Road perhaps more than any other. From its foundation in the 5th century BC, this crossroads of cultures, religions, peoples and languages has been a centre of artisans and traders as well as the prize for many a conquering army. Alexander the Great stormed its walls in 329 BC and many other rulers chose to make it their capital in the centuries that followed. Even the Soviet occupiers declared it the original capital of the Uzbek SSR in 1924, although it only kept that honour for four years! We take a half day walking city tour on Day 4 and the following day is free to explore the city. One highlight of our trip will certainly be standing on the iconic Registan Square with the three medressas (Ulugbek, Sher Dor and Tilla-Kari) towering over us. Close to the Registan is the Bibi-Khanym Mosque built by Timur and often compared to the Taj Mahal, as it was built as a grand and timeless symbol of a man's love for his wife. This mosque overlooks the busy and colourful Siob Bazaar, where photographers will delight in taking photos of the many bustling stalls and huge array of produce, as well as encounter friendly greetings from the local traders. Perhaps a visit to the local bazaar where you can sample delicious fresh produce or you might like to return to the many stalls nestled in the Registan Ensemble to find that perfect souvenir. (3B)
Day 6-7
Sentab
We take a break from the deserts and architecture, and spend two nights in a tiny village in the Nurata Mountains. We travel in smaller vehicles to navigate the narrow local roads as we climb into the mountains to reach Sentab and transfer to donkey carts for the final stage of the journey. Here, as part of a UN Development Program project, local families have established small private guesthouses and welcome visitors to their homes. As our hosts are ethnic Tajiks, this is a unique opportunity to hear another regional language, eat delicious home-cooked local specialities, and see the day-to-day life of the village. Accommodation is in the traditional style - the group will sleep on mattresses in communal rooms usually (but not required to be) divided by gender. Please bring a towel and you may also like to pack a lightweight sleeping sheet (although bedding is provided). The bathroom facilities are also basic, but manageable - with very simple shower and toilet arrangements. Such things are minor inconveniences however as we lounge on ‘tapchan’ (day beds) under the walnut trees, with the sound of the stream running nearby, and an once-in-a-lifetime cultural exchange unfolds. This is the perfect place to relax, or for those wanting to stretch their legs there are numerous local walking trails nearby which our hosts will be happy to show us. We have 2 days to relax, and you may wish to pack a swimming costume to take advantage of local springs. (2B, 2L, 2D)
Day 8
Sentab - Nurata - Bukhara
We continue to Bukhara via the small town of Nurata, site of Alexander the Great's Fortress. Formerly known as Nur and founded in the 3rd century BC by Alexander the Great. This ancient town was once regarded as the frontier between the cultivated lands and the steppes, and the ruins of Alexander’s hilltop citadel stand testament to its ancient history. The city was also an important Muslim place of pilgrimage, reaching its peak in the 10th century AD as devotees flocked to its many significant graves and memorials. We arrive in the holy city of Bukhara and enjoy some free time to absorb its ambience. Trading domes near here still offer an intriguing and colourful array of goods including embroideries, jewellery, spices, handicrafts and all manner of Silk Road treasures. This is the place to test your haggling skills, as well as share a joke or two with friendly local merchants. This is truly a magical place and it is sure to cast its spell on us too! (B, L)
Day 9-10
Bukhara
A UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, Bukhara is widely regarded as Central Asia’s holiest city. With many monuments dating from the 8th to the 18th century AD, there is a vast span of history and architecture to uncover and the meticulous restoration of many of the mosaic and majolica decorations give us a true sense of how these buildings looked in their original glory. With more than one hundred officially preserved monuments, there is a lot to see. We have a half day walking sightseeing tour here as well as a free day to explore the city. We start by visiting the ruins of the Ark Fortress. Dating back to the 5th century AD, it is the ancient heart of the city and the scene of several gruesome events. Opposite the fortress is the Bolo-Khauz Mosque, which dates back to 1718 and was the emirs’ official place of worship. We continue to the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, resting place of the founder of the Saminid Dynasty, the imposing Poikalon complex (comprising the Kalon Minaret, Kalon Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Medressa) and Ulugbek and Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa. Sitorai Mohi Hosa means Star and Garnet Garden and was the summer palace of the last emir. Its opulence is also reflected by its combination of local and European influences in its designs and furnishings. The halls are richly decorated with carpets and paintings. Char Minar is a unique structure with four minarets – one on each corner. It was built in 1807 by Turkmen merchant, Khalif Niyazkul. The twilight hours lend themselves to wandering the areas around the Lyabi-Hauz Pool, a central gathering place you can enjoy a traditional ‘chaikhana’ (tea-house) style dinner (optional). All manner of things can be found on sale in the covered bazaars. There are three of these trading domes left and we wander through Taqi-Sarrafon, Taqi-Telpak Furushon and Taqi-Zargaron in search of bargains and experiencing the spirit of trade which has driven this region since the halcyon days of the Silk Road era. In the midst of these bazaars is the Maghoki-Attar, reputed to be the oldest mosque in central Asia. (2B)
11
Bukhara - Tashkent
Our adventure in Uzbekistan is almost complete as we leave Bukhara by express train to return to the capital. The trip ends on arrival at Tashkent station. (B)
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