High Alaskan Ascents Wrangell/St. Elias,… (trip)

High Alaskan Ascents Wrangell/St. Elias, Alaska

  • Anchorage International Airport, Anchorage, AK, United States
  • Active & Adventure
Alaska, United States

from $2,850* per person12 DaysApril
Comfort accommodations Exertion level: 3
Operator: International Mountain Guides 12 people max
Wrangell/St. Elias is the largest National Park in the United States. It is greater in size than the entire country of Costa Rica. Of its 13.2 million acres, 5 million are permanently covered with snow and ice. This region has the largest concentration of mountain peaks over 14,500 feet in North America and very few visitors. It is definitely one of my favorite places to climb in the world. Come climb in this fabulous pristine wilderness before it gets "discovered."

Access is surprisingly easy from Anchorage. After a five hour drive from Anchorage the second night is normally spent at our bush pilot's lodge on the Chitina River. The next morning bright and early finds us landing on the glacier at the base of our climb. Most of our objectives are in the Wrangell mountain range. This is inland from the coast and has less precipitation than you might imagine. The temperature range is similar to Mt. McKinley in June, varying from sunny, shirtsleeve days to storms with high winds of 40 mph or more and -20°F and colder.

Our primary goal will be to make an ascent of one of the major peaks in the range (10,000+ to 16,500 feet). Working together as a small, mobile team, we will develop our own "Alaskan style" approach to climbing from a base at our landing site on the glacier. As we fine tune skills in preparation for our climb, we won't overlook opportunities to make other ascents of unclimbed peaks near camp. Our "Big Peak" will involve one or more additional camps above basecamp. It will be a route that requires route-finding skill, exciting climbing and the chance to climb where few have been before.

The peaks of Wrangell/St. Elias Nation Park provide a perfect step up from glacier climbing in the lower 48 states, and are excellent preparation for Mt. McKinley or other big expeditions. They remain the ultimate destination for those who want to escape crowded popular routes and experience mountains on their own terms.

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Locations visited/nearby

Alaska, United States

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Itinerary

Day 1    The group will meet in Anchorage on the afternoon of the starting date of the expedition. Arrangements will be made for us to spend the night at a local bed and breakfast (name and location to be announced). The cost of this will be up to each individual ($30-$40). We will meet at the bed and breakfast as our flight arrivals permit. The guides will do final equipment checks and go over packing. The afternoon will be the last opportunity to pick up additional food items or gear for the trip. Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking and REI are two of the better climbing stores nearby. We will plan to get together at a nearby restaurant for dinner and a chance to learn more about our fellow teammates.

Day 2    Early breakfast and departure for Chitina. Transportation to Chitina is prearranged and will cost each individual approximately $115 round trip. The drive to Chitina takes about 5 hours with a lunch stop on the way. At the Chitina airstrip, the bush pilot will pick us up and may shuttle us to his wilderness lodge, about 45 minutes flying time along the Chitina River. The night will be spent at the lodge and we will be provided with dinner and breakfast. In some instances, our selected peak is closer to the Chitina airstrip than the lodge. In these cases, we will either overnight at the airstrip (an unfurnished cabin is available), or be flown directly to the base of our objective.

Day 3    Weather permitting, we will fly to our landing site on the glacier and establish a permanent base camp.

Day 4    Review and training in glacier climbing skills and rope work. We want to start getting comfortable climbing as a team and begin reconnoitering our climbing objectives.

Day 5-10    Depending on weather and climbing conditions we will start the climb. This will involve establishing a high alpine camp or two above base camp during route finding missions. A carry of supplies will usually be made between each camp. The summit will take four or more days depending on weather, the route selected, route preparation (if necessary), and snow conditions.

Day 10-11    If we are lucky enough to finish our summit climb early, the remaining days will be spent in exploration, ascents of smaller peaks, training in advanced skills, or simply relaxing and enjoying the mountains. The options are endless.

Day 11 or 12    Pickup by our bush pilot, weather permitting. We will spend the evening of Day 11 at the bush pilot's lodge, if the group schedule permits, enjoying the sauna and a good meal. If our objective is closer to Chitina, we will be picked up on the morning of Day 12. We will fly directly to the Chitina Airstrip and drive to Anchorage by that evening. We'll be sure to stop for showers at a nearby lodge on the way back!

Day 12    Most likely our return day to Anchorage, arriving by late afternoon. The trip ends with our arrival in Anchorage, but often we try to get together at a local restaurant for a farewell dinner. Book your return flight for late on the evening of Day 12 (after 9:00 p.m.). A more realistic schedule might be to plan to spend the evening in Anchorage and then arrange a morning flight. Whatever your flight plans, be sure to book a flight that is changeable with a minimal penalty. We cannot guarantee your return date, although we commonly make it home on time!

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