Itinerary

Day One
Fly to Trabzon and drive to hotel.

Day Two
The dramatically situated Sumela Monastery dates from the 6th century, although most visible remains are 13th and 14th. It was hastily abandoned in 1923, when Christian and Muslim populations were separated in Turkey and Greece, and it deteriorated greatly, but recent restoration work has been carried out. Rest of the day in Trabzon, ancient Trapezos, to where Xenophon marched in 401BC with his 10,000 from the Zigana Pass en route westward, as recorded in his Anabasis. The city became rich and powerful after the Fourth Crusade, in the 15th century, when two brothers, Alexios and David Comnenos took control. Manyrich churches were built, and we visit the Church of Ayia Sofia, with fine late Byzantine murals, and the citadel.

Day Three
Drive over the Zigana Pass and along the old silk road to Erzurum, the highest city in Turkey. Possible stop en route (if time) at Bayburt Castle.

Day Four
Erzurum, for the Cifte Minare Medrese, a 13th century mosque, and the archaeological museum, with some fine Urartian pottery. Continue to Kars, a town original founded by the Armenians, and briefly their capital until this transferred to Ani. Its terraces of belle epoque houses date from the end of the 19th century, when it was held by the Russian Tsar.

Day Five
Ani, the former capital of Bagratid Armenia, is a natural fortress, defended on two sides by deep ravines, and with built fortifications of sandstone and volcanic rock to the north. The resulting shape of the medieval city is triangular, and includes some impressive remains, including a Cathedral, a Citadel, and the Church of the Holy Apostles. The 13th century Church of St Gregory the Illuminator followed the Orthodox rather than the Gregorian rite, and still has some fine frescoes. Finish the day with a visit to the citadel and church at Kars.

Day Six
Drive to Dogubayazit, a town, castle and palace, with a fine view of Mount Ararat, seen from the highway to Iran. The castle probably originated in the 4th century AD, but was substantially rebuilt in the medieval period. There is a fine Urartian rock relief to the west of it which can be seen from afar. We visit the nearby 17th century Ishak Pasha Palace.

Day Seven
Wonderful views this morning of Ararat and the ancient lava flows from the crater as you leave Dogubayazit. Continue to the Medieval city of Ahlat with monumental tombs (kumbets) and elaborately decorated gravestones, largely of the Mongol period. Continue to Tatvan Fortress.

Day Eight
Drive up to the volcanic crater rim of Nemrut Dag, overlooking the west end of Lake Van. NB this is not the site of the famous Commagene statues, but another mountain of the same name (the name means ‘Mountain of Nimrud’, the legendary hunter). Continue around the south shore to visit the famous 10th century Akhtamar Island Churchwith Old Testament scenes in relief, including David and Goliath. On to Van.

Day Nine
The impressive Urartian fortress of SarduriII (c 767 - 735BC) at Çavustepe, made with exceptionally fine limestone masonry. Medieval castle of Hosap at Guzelsu (if open) and bridge. Urartian sites at Upper and Lower Anzaf.

Day Ten
Urartian temple in fortress of Rusa II (c685-645BC) at Ayanis, with excavations currently directed for the Aegean University of Izmir. Mehr Kapisi in Van - an Urartian rock inscription listing offerings to gods and goddesses. Yedi Kilesi and Yonca Tepe.

Day Eleven
Beautiful boat trip to Carpanak Island, with the remains of a Monastery of St John, founded in 1414 and heavily restored during the early 18th century.

Day Twelve
Van Citadel and old city including museum.

Day Thirteen
Fly to Van to London via Istanbul.

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