Itinerary

The Atacama Desert in northern Chile is pure science fiction. The driest place on earth, some areas of the desert have not received rainfall in over 400 years. The landscape is one of extreme, elemental beauty. This is a desert that will not cower to the whims of man—it is far too busy resisting the forces of nature. We are talking about moonscaped valleys, towering dunes, craggy cliffs, blinding white salt flats, bubbling geysers, snow capped mountains (some ominously puffing smoke), sparkling gypsum-studded rocks, dancing flamingos, llama traffic jams, cactus sculptures, and blockbuster sunsets. Just when you think the show is over, a riotous celestial encore takes over the night sky. Think ‘2001, a Space Odyssey’ meets ‘Star Wars’, and you will be on the right track.

The active options in the Atacama are downright James Bond-worthy. Trek your heart out by foot, bike, horse, sandboard, or 4x4. When you can move no more, head to the spa to get the kinks worked out, or just park yourself poolside, pisco sour in hand, and watch the desert kaleidoscope spin.

In and around San Pedro, the Atacama’s hub, stylish, design-forward lodging choices abound. With difficulty, I narrowed it down to two. The ultra aesthetic Alto Atacama won my nomination for its jaw-dropping location. Surrounded 360 degrees by jagged red-faced mountains, Alto Atacama strikes a pose from every angle. In fact, had you looked past the heavenly bodies in the 2010 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition, you would have seen Alto Atacama as the backdrop.

At the indulgent Awasi, service is the star. Guests of each of the eight lavish cottages have dedicated private guides for made-to-order outings. The word around the oasis water cooler was that The Edge was an Awasi guest the week before my arrival. During his stay, he ventured out with Awasi escort extraordinaire, Jorge Corante. Apparently, The Edge passed unnoticed, but Jorge was universally recognized, and enthusiastically greeted, by every trekker the pair encountered. In the Atacama, volcano-conquering guides are the rock stars.

Amigos, don’t be fooled by the austere countenance of the Atacama. The desert is an ingénue just waiting to be discovered. Invite her to your casting couch. Have your way with her.

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