We start with a fairly easy walk on the Isle of Kerrera, set in the mouth of Oban Bay, acting as a natural breakwater for this important West coast harbour. Although it is close to the bustling tourist centre of Oban, with only 40 residents it is a world apart. Cars are banned on the Island except the inhabitants own vehicles. A historically and geologically interesting island, Kerrera gives a new and more fascinating view as we round each successive turn of the coast. A highlight is the sudden appearance of Gylen Castle.
We next turn to wild Glen Coe, where we will walk into the Coire Gabhail - also known as the ‘Lost Valley’ - concealed on a high meadow behind a massive rockfall. The MacDonalds used to hide stolen cattle in the times before the massacre of 1692. In addition to offering one of the most stunning views in Scotland,Glen Coe is also attributed to being one of the best-exposed examples of cauldron subsidence. Most of the major peaks within the glen consist of the lava flows and approximately 1200m of mostly volcanic sequences have been identified.
Later in the week we will walk on the island of Lismore, explore Loch Awe and an old drovers’ route through neighbouring hills and delve into Argyll’s earliest history in Kilmartin Glen, heartland of the first Gaelic-speaking Scots, with a unique concentration of prehistoric remains, such as cairns, a stone circle and rock carvings. There are several impressive medieval and later castles here, including Innis Chonnel and Carnasserie, and much else besides.
The week ends with a rough but spectacular walk around Jura’s wild north shore beside the swirling Corrievreckan. Red deer are guaranteed and we should keep an eye open for golden eagles, sea eagles, otters, porpoises and seals.
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Locations visited/nearby
Scotland, Europe
Itinerary
Saturday: Glasgow - Oban
Journey from Glasgow via Loch Lomond and the Pass of Brander to Oban.
Sunday: Island of Kerrera
A circuit of the south end of the Island of Kerrera via dramatically-situated Gylen Castle. Scenically beautiful, with new views opening out as we follow successive turns of the coast clockwise from the ferry landing, there's a lot of historical and geological interest on this walk. The confined Sound of Kerrera gives way to more open views south towards the islands of Seil and Scarba, followed in turn by the sudden appearance of Gylen Castle, its prominent silhouette backed by the hills of Mull across the wide Firth of Lorn. Turning north gives yet more new views towards Lismore and the hills beyond lining the long, straight rift where Loch Linnhe leads towards the distant Great Glen.
8 miles/13km and 700ft/200m ascent
Monday: Glen Coe
Northwards to Glen Coe where a walk into the 'Lost Valley' takes us into the heart of this wild mountain land beyond Rannoch Moor. The Lost Valley - properly Coire Gabhail, or the corrie of booty - is a dramatic glaciated 'hanging valley' situated between two of Glen Coe's famous 'three sisters' ridges. Hidden from the world behind massive piles of tumbled rock that fell from the oversteepened mountainsides late in the ice age, it is reputed to have been the place where the Glen Coe MacDonalds hid their stolen cattle if the original owners came looking.
Min. 6 miles/9 km and 1100ft/350m ascent
Tuesday: Kilmartin Glen
Southwards to see the best of the prehistoric monuments around Kilmartin, in Mid-Argyll. We start the day with a visit to Kilmartin House Museum and some of the neolitic monuments in the Glen, including Dunadd, the hill fort capital of the first Gaelic-speaking Scots. Our walk will take us into the hills between Kilmartin Glen and the shore with excellent views towards the isles of Jura, Scarba, Mull and the little inhabited islands closer to the coast.
7 miles/11km and 1000ft/300m ascent
Wednesday: Isle of Lismore
We take the passenger ferry from Port Appin for a walk along the northwest coast of Lismore to Castle Coeffin. Lismore, Lois Mor in Gaelic, means Great Garden and that is just what it is. But don't think ithe walk will be all path and track, because our route takes us along a coast with cliffs and arches. We pass sheltered bays and blowy hilltops with marvellous views. The magnificent ruin of the 13th century Castle Coeffin will be the furthest point of our walk. From there we cross the island to the east shore for a visit to Tirefour Castle, a Pictish broch. It is believed to be constructed around BC 500. On a clear day there are great views from the broch to Bern Nevis, Ben Cruachan and the Paps of Jura in the south.
8 miles/13km and little ascent
Thursday: Loch Awe and String of Lorn
We will travel to Loch Awe to see the evocative ruins of Innis Chonnel castle on their remote wooded islet This is the heart of clan Campbells' ancestral homelands and, though probably originally a MacDougall stronghold, the home of their clan chiefs before they shifted to Inveraray.
Innis Chonnel is one of the earliest, yet most complete, of Scotland's medieval stone castles; its more-or-less-complete curtain walls date largely from the 13th century. Perhaps being on an island has helped preserve it from quarrying?
Our walk will follow the 'String of Lorn' through the surrounding little hills of the Lorn plateau to Loch Scammadale a few miles south-east of Oban. This wild and lonely route is one of the most ancient and historic hill tracks of Argyll. The path must surely have been used by pilgrims on their way to Iona, following exactly the route taken by the drovers and their cattle hundreds of years earlier. Beautiful waterfalls tumble beside the site of a long ago battle between Campbells and MacDougalls. A large cairn beside the track marks the spot where the Campbell chief, Cailein Mor, is said to have been killed.
8 miles/13km and 1000ft/300m ascent
Friday: Isle of Jura
By hired boat from Craobh Haven to the north end of Jura for a rough but spectacular walk around the wild Corrievreckan shore. Red deer are unmissable and we should keep an eye open for golden eagles, sea eagles, otters, porpoises and seals. If wind and tide are right then the overfalls in Corrievreckan make one of the most stirring sights of all the world's oceans, with one of the biggest of all standing waves. Do try not to fall in.
8 miles/13km and 1000ft/300m ascent.
Saturday: Oban - Glasgow
Journey back to Glasgow.
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