
Our Indochina cultural tour through Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia will find you walking through Buddhist temples in Luang Prabang, the market streets of Hanoi and Hué, and the extraordinary temples of Angkor. Each day, we do as the locals do, walking or pedaling our way through villages, or cruising Ha Long Bay, the Mekong, and Perfume River in longboats. The sensory experiences of Southeast Asia call to mind the mysteries of ancient cultures, the serenity of Buddhist teachings, as well as modern images of French colonialism and embattled landscapes - they are, to say the least, powerful.
DAY 1
Luang Prabang, Laos
Walking - easy, 3-4 hours.
This morning the group unites with our local guide at our designated meeting point for a short flight to Laos and the beginning of our adventure.
Upon our arrival in Luang Prabang, our guide helps us through the visa process and we drive to our historic hotel to check-in and drop our bags.
After a brief rest, we meet for a walking tour of this ancient Lao capital with its quiet streets and beautiful pagodas. In the early evening, those with the energy will be treated to a stunning sunset over the city and the Mekong and Khan rivers from the top of Phousi Hill in the center of town. Tonight we dine together at our hotel, where we enjoy a traditional Baci ceremony: a ritual used to bring good wishes upon special events with offerings to the spirits.
Villa Maly, Luang Prabang
DAY 2
Pac Ou Caves, Lao Villages, Mekong River
Walking - easy, some stair climbing.
Those who wish can rise early, by 6 a.m., for transport into town to observe the pageantry of the local monks making their morning alms rounds. With countless saffron robes aglow in the early morning light, Luang Prabang quietly comes to life. It is truly a special time to be on these city streets.
We return to the hotel for breakfast, and gather to begin the day’s exploration. Driving north, we pass through local villages on our way to the Pac Ou caves, situated at the Mekong’s confluence with the Nam Ou River. Here we explore sacred hollows in the limestone cliffs, once inhabited by Buddhist monks, which are now thought to be the home of guardian spirits. Many Lao pilgrims make their way here annually, on the Lao New Year, to visit the countless gilded Buddha statues. From the river, we climb a series of steps to the lower cave and enter into its candlelit recess.
Those looking for a bit of an invigorating challenge continue still higher to the upper caves, before returning to river level where we meet our longboat for the return journey to Luang Prabang on the Mekong River. It is a lazy cruise downstream and we have the pleasure of taking in life on the river banks: solitary fishermen throwing their nets, grazing water buffalo, and women panning for gold.
In the late afternoon, we are either dropped off in town for some independent exploring, or returned to our hotel to relax before the evening’s dinner at the exquisite 3 Nagas Restaurant. After dinner we visit the night market, browsing among the many woven goods brought for sale by the local villagers. With the main road through the Old Quarter blocked to traffic, and the vibrant colors and soft lights of the market brightening the night, it is the perfect way to wind down an enjoyable day.
Villa Maly, Luang Prabang
DAY 3
Wat Long Koun, Wat Chom Peth, Ban Xieng Men, Ban Phanom
Walking - easy, 3- 4 hours.
Optional biking: 15 miles on easy country roads.
This morning after breakfast we board a boat from the hotel to cross the Mekong River so we can explore the villages and temples on the far side. First we stop at Wat Long Koun, a beautiful temple that dates back to the 18th century. Walking along the river to Wat Chom Peth we find ourselves with a stunning view over the storied Mekong. After visiting Ban Xieng Men, a typical Lao village, we continue to the pottery village of Ban Chan before returning to Luang Prabang by boat.
After lunch and a short rest, we depart Luang Prabang on an easy afternoon bicycle tour of the area. We begin by riding to Ban Phnom, a silk weaving village that produces beautiful, highly prized textiles, before continuing down a small lane to the gravesite of Henri Mouhot, the man credited with rediscovering the lost city of Angkor in the mid-19th century. From here we cross the Nam Khan River by boat, with our bicycles in tow, passing several small riverside Lao Lum settlements.
Later, we make our way back to town with time to explore at our leisure, and free to dine on our own during our last evening in this lovely city.
Villa Maly, Luang Prabang
VIETNAM
Since 1994 when President Clinton lifted the U.S. trade embargo against Vietnam, the nation has been working hard to rebuild its economy. Largely overlooked by the international community in the years after the war, Vietnam has recently enjoyed an influx of visitors eager to experience all the country has to offer. The combination of capitalism and communism is readily visible from north to south, and with this comes both a welcoming attitude to visitors, as well as a determined national pride.
What one experiences traveling through Vietnam today is an ever-present reminder that the country’s rich history dates back much further than the recent historical events which come so quickly to mind. With evidence of inhabitants in the Red River Delta (the cradle of Vietnamese culture) since 5000 B.C., there is a great deal to see in Vietnam that speaks of powerful past dynastic rule and an interesting blend of world religions.
DAY 4
Luang Prabang to Hanoi; Vientiane city tour
Walking - easy, 2-3 hours.
A leisurely morning finds us taking in the view of the Mekong as the sun rises, or making a last trip to the local market for photos and crafts. Just before lunch we say good-bye to this pleasant city as we travel to Laos’ modern day capital of Vientiane. The short flight allows us to arrive in time for an afternoon stroll through the quiet streets. We take in the impressive Pratuxai Monument and That Luang, the most sacred site in Vientiane.
By late afternoon, we continue our journey by air to Hanoi where we check in to our luxurious hotel, on the banks of Ho Tay Lake, overlooking the 800-year-old Golden Lotus Pagoda. Tonight we dine in the hotel's excellent restaurant.
InterContinental Westlake, Hanoi
DAY 5
Ho Chi Minh’s House, One Pillar Pagoda, Temple of Literature, Old Quarter
Walking - easy city tour, 3-5 hours.
With so much to see in Hanoi, we start early for our exploration of historic cultural sites. We begin at the Presidential Palace where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 to 1969. Originally the home of the Governor General of Indochina, the immaculate grounds became the center of revolutionary activity once North Vietnam achieved independence in 1954. Ho Chi Minh opted not to move into the palace at that time, believing it belonged to the North Vietnamese people, and instead lived in the neighboring “House on Stilts.” Here the revered Uncle Ho worked amidst the gardens, mango alley, and the carp-filled pond. The whole structure has been preserved in perfect condition, a tribute to the well-loved leader.
Next we visit the One Pillar Pagoda, built after King Ly Thai To’s vision of a bodhisattva sitting on a lotus in 1049. The lotus-shaped temple sits atop a pillar jutting out of a lily pond. Soon after the temple was built, the King’s wife gave him a son, and today childless couples still visit the pagoda to make prayer offerings.
The Temple of Literature is perhaps Hanoi’s best-preserved ancient site. Also built in the 11th century, Van Mieu, as it is known in Vietnamese, served as the national university for 700 years.
Midday we take a break for lunch at a unique culinary venue. KOTO Restaurant, a stop for nearly all important foreign dignitaries to northern Vietnam, is a place where young people are taken off the streets and employed, after an extensive screening process and an eighteen month training program. The concept, explained by the restaurant’s name - Know One, Teach One - is designed to spread opportunities among those who have had few.
Our afternoon hours take on a slightly different focus as we sample the bustle of everyday life in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. We experience the rush of walking amidst shoppers, business people, families taking meals together at curb-side eateries, and the myriad shops in which to browse.
After freshening up, we dine this evening at the acclaimed Seasons Restaurant.
InterContinental Westlake, Hanoi
DAY 6
Ha Long Bay
Scenic Cruise - 4-5 hours.
This morning after breakfast we drive out of Hanoi to Ha Long Bay, where we board our own private junk for a trip around this magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the natural marvels of Vietnam. Covering an area of 1000 square miles, Ha Long Bay contains numerous tiny islands with sparsely forested slopes and is dotted with beaches and grottoes created by wind and waves. We enjoy a delicious seafood lunch on board and sail around a portion of this immense bay for the entire afternoon, stopping to visit some stunning rock formations and beautifully illuminated caves. In the late afternoon we return to Hanoi for a final night in this fascinating city.
InterContinental Westlake, Hanoi
DAY 7
Hanoi to Hué; Perfume River: Minh Mang and Khai Dinh tombs
Walking - easy, 3-5 hours.
Early this morning we fly from Hanoi to Hué in central Vietnam. From 1802 to 1945, Hué was the country’s political capital under the Nguyen Dynasty’s thirteen emperors. Hué was very much caught in the crossfire during the years of war with the Americans. The educated populace tended to support neither the North nor the South, but still they suffered from their location in between the two. Hué experienced truly awful devastation when, during the 1968 Tet Offensive, the North Vietnamese held the city for nearly a month, using the ancient Citadel as their base of operations. American soldiers fought to regain it but did so only after an estimated 10,000 people died (many of them Hué civilians) and the city’s many important historic cultural sites were destroyed. Restoration is steadily underway, and today you will find Hué to be a rather small and quiet town, especially in comparison to the northern and southern capitals of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Our tour begins with a leisurely boat ride up the Perfume River, which bisects the city into its north and south banks. Along our way south, we pass farmers at work in their fields, watch young boys paddling their shallow wooden boats as they fish, women washing clothes along the banks, and the central mountains revealing themselves around each bend in the river. It is an idyllic setting, one we can genuinely appreciate after the lively streets of Hanoi.
Our destinations are the tombs of emperors Minh Mang and Khai Dinh. Minh Mang’s tomb was built after his death in 1840 by his heir, and it remains a tranquil tribute with its sense of order, stone carvings and statues, elaborate gates, and well manicured gardens.
Completed in 1931, Khai Dinh’s tomb demonstrates the architectural penchant of its time: a combination of Asian and European motifs. It is characterized as much by the dragon pillars of the entryway as it is by the colorful glass mosaic frescoes inside the main hall.
After taking in these historic sites, we freshen up at our hotel and perhaps go for a swim in the courtyard pool before heading out to sample the local fare at a nearby restaurant.
La Residence Hotel and Spa, Hué
DAY 8
The Citadel, Imperial Palace, and Forbidden Purple City
Walking - easy, 4- 6 hours.
After breakfast we depart for a day exploring the fortified Citadel walls. In the early 19th century, Emperor Gia Long conscripted thousands of laborers to build a replica of the Forbidden City in Beijing. They dug a ten kilometer moat and earthen walls to form the outer perimeter. Later, the earthen walls were replaced with those of two-meter-thick stone. The Emperor decided to locate his own palace within the walls of the citadel, and a second, smaller set of walls and moat were built to define the area of the Forbidden Purple City. Here a network of palaces, gates, and courtyards served as his home and the core of his empire.
Also largely destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive, the city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and those buildings that remained have been painstakingly restored. Sadly, much of the site was badly damaged during the war and has been given over to rice fields.
Late in the afternoon we choose either to explore the local Dong Ba market which is just across the Trang Tien Bridge outside our hotel, or relax by the pool. Dinner tonight is at the hotel.
La Residence Hotel and Spa, Hué
DAY 9
Transfer Day: Hai Van Pass, Cham Museum, Marble Mountain, Hoi An Ancient Town
Walking - easy, 2-3 hours.
Today we enjoy seeing a bit of the mountainous coast of central Vietnam as we leave Hué and drive to Hoi An. En route, we follow Highway 1 up and over Hai Van Pass with its incredible views over the lagoon and the South China Sea.
On the south side of the pass, 67 miles from Hué, is Danang. Here we stop to visit the Cham Museum with its collection of over 300 sandstone sculptures, the world’s largest collection of artifacts from the Cham people, dating back to the 4th century.
Continuing on, less than ten miles outside of Danang we stop for a short climb up the Marble Mountains to see the shrines and limestone caves that blanket the hills. Hoi An is under twenty miles further from this point.
After our arrival and hotel check-in, our guide orients us to this old port town with a walking tour of its historic sites. We begin with the Japanese Covered Bridge, a Hoi An landmark. Built in the 16th century, the bridge was constructed to link the Japanese quarter with the Chinese quarter. From here we make a visit to some of the city’s heritage housing, like the Phung Hung House. This multi-storied mansion embodies Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese architectural features, and has belonged to the same family for eight generations. Inside we see the altar dedicated to the worship of past ancestors.
Before the end of the day we visit the best of the local museums and pagodas before returning to our perfectly-located hotel to freshen up. Situated only a short walk from the town center, but backing up to the peaceful Thu Bon River, our home for the next few days enables us to best enjoy this special city while also being pampered after days full of exploration.
We gather, just before sunset, for a short river cruise and evening cocktail before dinner at our hotel. The French patisserie, near the hotel’s pool, is just the place for dessert for those who have had a full day. Others may choose to see the city at night and sit at one of the many sidewalk cafés for a late evening treat.
Life Resort, Hoi An
Day 10
Independent exploration of Hoi An
Because Hoi An has such a variety of must-do activities, today we have an opportunity to choose independently from a variety of offerings. For cooking enthusiasts we can arrange a cooking class to learn the secrets of Vietnamese cuisine’s ingredients and signature dishes. Those who enjoyed the Cham Museum may opt to join a group going to the My Son Ruins, an hour’s drive south, to see the original home of many of the statues. Also located here are remnants of towers and temples from the Kingdom of Champa; built between the 4th and 13th centuries.
Avid fishermen are also in luck, as authentic fishing experiences can easily be arranged for today’s activities. Lastly, for those who wish to bring home some truly unique souvenirs, Hoi An is a terrific shopping destination. With tailor shops scattered throughout the old town, you can stop in for some custom made clothing (allow 4-6 hours for items to be made—make these stops early in the day), or handmade silk lanterns in all shapes, sizes and colors. Handbags are popular, as well as vibrantly colored paintings by local artists. The choices are seemingly endless and you will have fun with the local shop keepers in the course of your search for fantastic local goods!
The evening brings another opportunity to dine on our own, this time at one of Hoi An’s many fine restaurants, as we prepare to say goodbye to Vietnam.
Life Resort, Hoi An
CAMBODIA
When you arrive in Siem Reap you will see the latest chapter of Cambodian history being written. New hotels abound in an effort to support the curiosity of travelers eager to visit the magnificent temples of Angkor that have been, in recent decades, virtually unreachable. With years of territorial wars in Southeast Asia, bombing by the United States, and still more years of a brutal civil war, Cambodia has suffered greatly. What remains now is the task of continued rebuilding, and reacquainting foreign visitors with the wonders of the powerful ancient Khmer culture.
Angkor Wat is widely considered one of the world’s greatest architectural masterpieces. The Angkor complex includes 70 ruins in an area of nearly 80 square miles. Declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1992, a number of organizations have been at work to restore what has been destroyed, and replicate what has been stolen. You will find different temples in differing states of repair. Inevitably you will find yourself moved by what you see and hear: the history carved in stone, and the stories told by the Khmer people.
DAY 11
Fly to Siem Reap. Introduction to Angkor: Phnom Bakeng
Walking - moderate, uphill, 1-2 hours.
A short drive back to Danang brings us to the airport from which we will fly first to Ho Chi Minh City, and then to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Upon arrival we are met by our local guide and transferred, for check-in, to our hotel in the heart of town.
In the afternoon, eager to see the jewel of Indochina, we take a short drive to Angkor. For our first day’s exploration, we go to the place where we can best take in the view of the entire area: Phnom Bakheng, sitting on top of a two-hundred foot hill. Dating back to either the 9th or early 10th century, this temple offers incredible views over Angkor Wat to the southeast, and of the sunset over the countryside to the west. This introduction to Angkor should ensure that we wake early tomorrow anxious for a full day of exploration.
We enjoy a relaxed dinner at our hotel, and then retire in comfort after a day of travel.
Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa, Siem Reap
DAY 12
Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple, Angkor Wat
Walking - easy, 5-7 hours.
To take advantage of the cooler air and the lovely morning light, we start out early to visit some of the true highlights of Angkor: Angkor Thom and the exquisite Angkor Wat.
Ankor Thom, or the Great City, is a Buddhist monument, the walls of which form a tremendous square, enclosing an area of 900 hectares. They are surrounded by a wide moat, which is crossed at each of the five city gates by statued causeways. Inside we find an array of historical sites, including the life-size freizes of the Leper King Terrace and the mysterious and beautiful Bayon Temple. The Bayon is an incredible manifestation of the spiritual beliefs of the Buddhist king Jayavarman VII who built it. With one of the four faces of each of the original 54 towers looking in each direction, they seem to symbolize both the omnipresence of Lokesvara (the kingdom’s bodhisattva), as well as the king himself, perhaps overlooking the four corners of his vast kingdom.
After a break for lunch, we head to Angkor Wat, the world’s largest temple at one square mile, and the best preserved of all in Angkor. Construction of this three-tiered structure began in 1120 and was completed thirty years later. Each stone is intricately carved in scenes telling stories from Khmer history and Hindu legend. At nearly 13,000 square feet, Angkor Wat’s sandstone carvings represent the longest continuous bas-relief in the world, and the finest of Khmer art.
Even though Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century, outside of war time it has remained a pilgrimage site for Cambodians as well as Buddhists, Hindus and admirers from all around the world. The bas-reliefs tell the story of these enamored visitors, as the sandstone has been worn to a glossy sheen from the trailing fingers of admiring hands.
At the end of the day we retreat to the Foreign Correspondent’s Club for dinner, and another evening in Siem Reap.
Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa, Siem Reap
DAY 13
Sunrise at Angkor, Wat Trak and Roulos Group
Walk – easy to moderate, 4-5 hours. Optional afternoon biking – easy, on rural trails.
Recognizing that one day is not enough to fully appreciate the many beautiful sites of Angkor, this morning we rise at dawn to see the marvelous temples at sunrise. With fewer visitors, and spectacular light, sunrise is a magical time to visit this extraordinary place.
After a midday respite, we pick up our bikes for an easy afternoon ride to Wat Trak temple, on scenic country trails. From here we continue to the Roulos group of ruins, the oldest among those at Angkor, dating back to the 9th century. The riding route is well established and not technical in nature. As we cruise through the landscape, we get a feel for what life is like in the villages outside of Siem Reap. We may even see the local women, in colorful garb, carrying their produce to and from the market. Our afternoon of bicycle touring is the perfect way to end our exploration of Angkor as it allows us to step away from the minute details of the bas-reliefs and take in the splendor of the area as a whole.
To celebrate the conclusion of our rich two-week journey through Indochina, we dine this evening at Madame Butterfly, a restaurant which serves the finest Khmer cuisine in a converted traditional wooden home.
Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa, Siem Reap
DAY 14
Return flight to Bangkok
This morning we fly from Siem Reap back to Bangkok where we either continue our travels independently, or prepare for late afternoon flights home.
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