Itinerary

Thurs., Feb. 14* – Depart U.S.
You’ll be leaving in the evening, and we’ve coordinated flight arrivals from the U.S. to Indira Gandhi International Airport the morning of Monday, Feb. 15th.  
* If you’d like to add a city tour on to your stay, or simply rest up from your travels to be ready for our adventures, we strongly suggest that you arrive a day or two early to take in the many historical and cultural sites (modest additional cost), and we’re happy to coordinate the extra day(s) with activities at our hotel. If so, you would leave the U.S. on either the 12th or 13th…  Either way we've booked the night of the 14th as part of your stay as if you arrive at dawn, you'll want to check in, so count on that for your comfort.
Accommodations at the Mango Tree Guest House night of the 14th to accommodate early a.m. check-ins.

Fri., Feb. 15 – Arrive New Delhi / Okhla Bird Sanctuary
Naturalist Journeys will suggest flights so we can coordinate arrivals for group transfers to our hotel for breakfast and to rest and freshen up.  Those who wish can enjoy an afternoon of birding, about an hour's drive from our hotel, at the Okhla Bird Sanctuary. Probable species here include the Grey Lag Goose, Bar-headed Goose, Tufted Duck, Spot-billed Duck, Night Heron, Purple Heron, Greater Flamingo, Eurasian Spoonbills, Purple Gallinules, Bronze-winged Jacanas, and Kentish Plovers, among others.
Accommodations at the Mango Tree Guest House, New Delhi (B,L,D)

Sat., Feb. 16 – Train from Delhi to Agra / Chambal River
This morning we are driven to the New Delhi Railway Station, where we board a luxury train from Delhi to Agra, arriving at 08:20 (a two hour drive from the station).   On arrival in Agra, we are met in an air-conditioned coach to travel through rural areas to our lodgings for the next two nights at the Chambal River Safari Lodge.  We arrive in time for lunch, the first of several authentic Indian meals, created from century-old family recipes and prepared especially for you.

The Chambal River is one of the country’s most beautiful and pristine rivers. The National Chambal Sanctuary was formed to protect this healthy intact ecosystem, complete with its varied flora, aquatic life, and avifauna. The River Chambal, the raison d’être for the entire biota of the sanctuary, harbors a variety of aquatic life: elusive Gangetic Dolphins, Marsh Crocodiles, Gharials (also known as Fish-eating Crocodiles), freshwater turtles, and various species of fish. The river now boasts a population of more than 1,600 Gharials and 200 Marsh Crocodiles – both formerly quite rare. We spend the afternoon exploring the river by boat.

The surrounding environs of the river are a true bird watcher’s delight. During the season (November - March) one can see several species of migratory and resident birds flock at the shores of the river. At least 150 species of birds have been identified. Species of birds in abundance include Bar-headed Geese, Brahminy Ducks, Common Teal, pelicans, flamingoes, and cormorants. Here one can have an easy sighting of rare Indian Skimmers - the highest population of which in the world is found in Chambal. Some other species recorded here include Crested Larks, River Lapwings, Great Thick-knees, Desert Wheatears, Red-crested Pochards, White-browed Wagtails, Pied Kingfishers, and Little Ringed Plovers.  Sand Larks may occur along the shores, and raptors appear overhead.

Chambal Safari Lodge is located 5 km away from the river Chambal, as the crow flies, within the agricultural fields of its owner. The lodge is surrounded by a few picturesque old trees and is adjacent to a small mango orchard. The lodge offers simple but comfortable rooms with en-suite bathrooms. The delicious food is a mix of Indian and Continental dishes, and some meals are served out in the open with a log fire – elegant and close to nature as we dine.
Accommodations at Chambal Safari Lodge (B,L,D)

Sun., Feb. 17 – Chambal River Boat Safari / Beteshwar Temples / Local Market
This morning, we enjoy a second boat safari on the Chambal River, a good place to return to as over 150 species of birds have been identified along the river and adjoining surroundings. We look for Asian Giant Soft Shell Turtles, Three Striped Roof Turtles, Red Crowned Roof Turtles and Indian Flap Shell Turtles, as well as any birds we missed yesterday. Long-legged Buzzards, Bonelli’s Eagles, Indian Rollers, Verditer Flycatchers, Black Hooded Orioles, and Asian Koels are among those we typically find. This is also a good area to look for the elusive Rufous Fronted Prinias.

On our way back we can stop at a nearby truly local market to admire vegetables, farm implements, and handicrafts. It’s hard to say who is more fascinated here: we as guests, or locals beholding our visit.

In the afternoon we visit an intriguing collection of river temples, dedicated to Lord Shiva. On a walk here we see the way of life in this part of India. The setting is beautiful and photographers will find this a delight.

As we return to the lodge, the staff has a warm fire ready for us to gather around, drinks if we choose, and dinner inspired by family recipes passed down for decades at this gracious country inn. Those who still have a bit of stamina can wander a short distance from the fire to find owls and possibly night mammals on the property, such as Indian Civet Cat and Indian Fruit Bats.
Accommodations at Chambal Safari Lodge (B,L,D)

Mon., Feb. 18 – Sunrise by the Taj Mahal / Bharatpur
Today is an early rising, and after coffee and something light to eat, we drive to Agrain time to greet the day (Peg's birthday!) at the Taj Mahal, a World Heritage Site.  We have a private guide, and come at this time for both the beauty and to avoid thecrowds.Built by a grieving Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child, the Taj Mahal is a fabulously decorated, stunning mausoleum. The construction of the tomb began in 1633, and 20,000 workers labored for 22 years to build it. Taj Mahal changes its mood with the different times of the day. At dawn, the white marble has a delicate light, perfect for photography and viewing. The many faces of the Taj Mahal display the seductive power of architecture, amplified by fine and detailed tile work.

Enjoy time to wander and marvel at the tile work, architectural details and grounds.  We go for brunch at a local restaurant as the group is ready to leave.  If there is interest, we can stop at a shop where artisans today do similar tile work so you can see the techniques and browse for something you may wish to purchase (yes, they ship!).
We leave Agra for our next three nights' lodgings at the Laxmi Vilas, our chance to stay in a palace!  On arrival, we are met by a local birding guide who is sure to have some special species scouted for us to allow for some great birding in the late afternoon – sightings like Greater Painted Snipes, Wood and Common sandpipers, Black Bitterns, Purple and Grey herons, and Black-capped Night-Herons.

We’re in for a treat as we settle into accommodations at the Laxmi Vilas Palace, lavish lodgings built in the colonial era, yet bringing us modern comforts: a swimming pool, telephones in rooms, and often music in the evenings. The dining room offers a fixed buffet with Indian and Continental options; the lounge has historical photos. The resort, located next to a farmland, includes a lovely garden with good birding potential. Some nights we hear the music of local weddings, long into the night.
Accommodations at Laxmi Vilas Hotel (B,L,D)  www.laxmivilas.com

Tues., Feb. 19 – Bharatpur / Spectacular Birding by Rickshaw
Have you ever been birding by rickshaw?? The time is now!
The marshes of Keoladeo were once the private hunting reserve of the Maharajas of Bharatpur. Popularly known as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, this area is today rated as one of the finest waterfowl reserves in the world. It was developed in the late 19th century by creating small dams and ponds in an area of natural depressions to collect rainwater and by augmenting the water supply with an irrigation canal. Prior to conservation, the lakes attracted great numbers of waterfowl, and the Maharajas held grand shoots with family, friends, and visiting dignitaries. Today, visiting birders shoot pictures and aim for memories. In addition to extensive wetlands, the park is covered in dry deciduous forests (with Acacia, Zizyphus, and Date trees) and extensive grasslands. The sanctuary gets its name from the ancient Hindu temple devoted to Lord Shiva, which has a residing deity called Keoladeo, while Ghana in local parlance implies dense, referring to the thick forests covering the area.

In a good season with benevolent rains, Keoladeo is one of Asia’s finest birding areas, with over 380 resident and migrant species. Mammals like Golden Jackals, Striped Hyenas, Fishing Cats, Nilgais (the largest of India’s antelopes), and reptiles, like Indian Pythons and Water Monitors, are also visible in this park. Keoladeo has a bewildering variety of flora representing 64 families, 181 genera, and 227 subspecies.

We spend all day today exploring Keoladeo. Depending on the volume of seasonal rains, as much as two-thirds of the park can be covered with water. The remaining one-third of the park’s forests and grasslands create diverse habitats that support a variety of species. Resident water birds, such as Black-Necked and Painted storks, congregate in large mixed colonies on islands in the wetlands. Grassland species such as the endemic Indian Courser forage in open areas.

We’ll also look for Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Sociable Lapwings, Black Bitterns, a variety of owls: Indian Scops Owls, Spotted Little Owls, Dusky Eagle Owls, Brown Hawk Owls, and raptors: Steppe, Greater Spotted, Indian Spotted, and Imperial eagles, Common Kestrels, and Eurasian Hobbies. Specialties of a birding trip to India we might see here include magnificent Sarus Cranes, Large-tailed Nightjars, and Siberian Rubythroats.

After lunch, we also visit Keoladeo Dam where we have a chance to see Montagu's and Pallid harriers, coursing over the fields in a way you're immediately familiar with. They roost here in good number, so it’s a nice way to end the day with a walk and raptors in motion.
Accommodations at Laxmi Vilas Palace (B,L,D)

Wed., Feb. 20 – Bund Baretha / Return to our Palace!
Today our full-day adventure will be at Bund Baretha, a large reservoir surrounded by arid countryside approximately 40 km from Bharatpur. Along the way, we’ll check the open fields for Ashy and Plain Prinias, Indian Black Robins, Common Stonechats, Ashy-crowned Finch-Larks, Southern Grey Shrikes, Indian Silverbills, and colorful and entertaining Indian Rollers. We stop at roadside pools in search of Wire-tailed Swallows, White-tailed Lapwings, Common Teal, Citrine Wagtails, and Grey-throated Sand-Martins. On the way up to the reservoir overlook, we look for Yellow-eyed Babblers, White-capped Buntings, Brown Rock-Chats, and Eurasian Hoopoes. At the Bund, we’ll scan the open water for Cotton Teal, Red-crested Pochards, Great Crested Grebes, Ferruginous Ducks, and watch the shores for Bronze-winged Jacanas. River Terns are a possibility here, as are the endemic Indian Skimmers. If the group wishes, we return to Bharatpur in the afternoon as we pass by for one last visit. Alternately, we can return to relax at the palace!
Accommodations at Laxmi Vilas Palace (B,L,D)

Thurs., Feb. 21 – Train Ride from Agra / Ranthambhore Tiger Sanctuary
This morning, after birding and an alfresco breakfast, we return to the Mathura Station, where we board the train for passage to Ranthambhore, a legendary place for conservation of Bengal Tigers.  Our train, the Golden Temple Mail, departs at approximately 10:00AM and we’ve booked a comfortable air-conditioned sleeper coach for you so you can rest as you wish. We arrive at the Sawai Madhopur station at approximately 1:00 PM. From here we will be met, and it’s a short half-hour or so to The Pugmark Resort/Ranthambhore Bagh and Ranthambhor town.
Please do note that the train bookings open 120 days prior to the travel date and hence names with passport details are to be sent ASAP, upon registration, for us to confirm seats.

This afternoon we enjoy a walk in the nearby areas looking for birds like the Indian Black Robin, Oriental Magpie Robin, Desert and Variable Wheatear, Indian Bush Lark, Crested Lark, and Yellow Wattled Lapwing. The gardens also have birds like the White Browed Fantail and Shikra, among others.

We stay at The Ranthambhore Bagh, which sprawls over an area of more than 5 acres at the edge of the Ranthambhore National Park in Rajasthan. It’s set amidst trees on a private estate, overlooking the Aravali Ranges, and a short drive from the main entrance of the reserve. The facade of the resort is a harmonious mix of modern architecture and imaginative landscaping.
Accommodations at The Ranthambhore Bagh (B,L,D)  www.ranthambhore.com

Fri., Feb. 22 & Sat., Feb. 23 – Two Full Days at the Ranthambhore Tiger Sanctuary
Ranthambhore is considered by many to be one of India’s most beautiful national parks. Encircled by a series of high escarpments, the forests, lakes, and dry scrub that make up the park are dotted with old forts and temples, creating a wonderful atmosphere for both bird and mammal-viewing amongst a landscape oozing with ancient Rajput history and Rajasthani culture.

Ranthambhore is perhaps most famous for being one of the original Project Tiger reserves, and it still affords one of the best opportunities anywhere in India of seeing a Bengal Tiger. With the recent escalation in poaching across the sub-continent, both numbers and sightings of this magnificent animal have declined to a worrisome degree in many parts of the country. It is noteworthy that Bengal Tiger sightings in the park are on the increase!  We travel the park in open 4WD vehicles with expert local guides, each morning and afternoon, with a mid-day break back at our hotel.

Whether or not we see a Bengal Tiger (we trust you will with two full days in the park), you will not fail to be impressed by the sheer variety of other birds and mammals that make this place their home. Common Langurs are abundant, as are both Spotted (Chital) and Sambar deer; the latter often feed so far out into the lakes that only their heads show above the water. Nilgais are also fairly common, and Barking Deer do occur, although they are somewhat harder to find. For the very fortunate, we might even catch sight of a Sloth Bear or perhaps a Chinkara Antelope.

Mugger Crocodiles are common in the lakes, and Monitor Lizards are frequently seen around their shores. In addition to the mammals and reptiles, we also see a wonderful diversity of birds. Flocks of Peafowl are on almost constant show, whilst on the lakes Cotton Pygmy Geese and Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed jacanas are common. The surrounding woodland and grasslands hold such species as Black-rumped Flameback Woodpeckers, Tickell’s Blue Flycatchers, Rufous-tailed Finch Larks (an Indian endemic), Painted Spurfowl, Jungle Bush Quail, Small Minivets, and Stork-billed Kingfishers.

In addition, we have an opportunity to find up to four species of owls: Brown Fish Owl, Dusky Eagle Owl, Spotted Owlet, and Indian Scops Owl. On each of our game drives, we will be accompanied by local guides, whose expert knowledge of the park is invaluable when tracking down some of the more elusive species.
Accommodations at Ranthambore Bagh (B,L,D)

Sun., Feb. 24 – Ranthambhor Tiger Sanctuary / New Delhi for evening departures, or begin the post-tour five-night extension (see below):
Those on only the main tour enjoy a final morning safari and lunch, and then leave for the Sawai Madhopur station to board the afternoon train to return to New Delhi. The train leaves at 1:10PM, arriving Delhi at 9:30 PM.  On arrival, you are met and taken to the International airport for departures, or to an airport hotel of your choice (extra cost). (B,L)

 

EXTENSION TO WESTERN INDIA: HOTSPOT OF BIODIVERSITY
A Mix of Nature and Culture at GOA AND MUMBAI
Feb. 24-March 1, 2013

Sun., Feb. 24 Western India: Goa
Those continuing on for the Goa Extension take the morning train to New Delhi. On arrival at New Delhi, we are met and driven to New Delhi airport to connect to the flight to Goa. On arrival at Goa, we are met by new local guides/drivers and driven for two hours, thirty minutes to South Goa at the Backwoods Camp. On arrival at Backwoods, we check in to simple but comfortable jungle huts closely followed by dinner.
Accommodations at Backwoods Safari Camp (B,L,D)

Mon., Feb. 25 Goa – In Search of Endemic Birds and Biodiversity
Early this morning from the lodge we head for a walk to the nearby areas looking for endemic species of the Goa region, quite different from habitats we experienced on the main tour.  Some of the birds we hope to find include the endemics – or near-endemics – Srilanka Frogmouth, Malabar Trogon, Malabar Wood Shrike, White Bellied Woodpecker, Puff Throated Babbler, Malabar Pied and Malabar Grey Hornbill, Great Pied Hornbill, Red Spurfowl, Grey Junglefowl, Grey Headed Bulbul, Square-tailed Black Bulbul and more. Other birds include the Greater Flameback, Heartspottted Woodpecker, Jungle Nightjar, Indian Nightjar, Brown Hawk Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Oriental Scops Owl, Flame Throated Bulbul, Western Crowned Warbler, Large Billed Leaf Warbler and others – all possible close to our lodge!  

After the first of what will be several splendid walks, we return to the lodge for a hot Indian breakfast accompanied by breads with butter and jam and fruits, etc.  Post-breakfast, we offer a second walk following another trail from the lodge, looking for more of the region’s specialties.

We enjoy lunch back at the lodge, and follow it up with time to rest. The afternoon starts with tea and coffee and a short drive to an area to watch Black-headed and Red-headed Buntings, Malabar Larks, Black Throated Munias, Indian Silverbills and other species.

After an hour or so, those who wish can then drive further to an area where there is a possibility for sighting nightjars; your guide will have a spotlight and tapes may be used to call the bird in. Post birding, we drive back to the lodge for a sumptuous dinner – the dinner is normally a set menu of local Indian (Goanese) curries served hot (mild spice levels or ask for more heat) with rice and Indian bread.
Accommodations at the Backwoods Camp (B,L,D)

Tues. - Wed., Feb. 26-27 Goa – India’s Hotspot of Biodiversity
Goa has been compared to the Amazon and Congo Basins, located in an area of lush equatorial forests that change in composition over an escarpment that rises to the Western Ghats, a chain of small mountain ranges.  Within this rich biodiversity, we settle in to camp life, where on both days we walk from or near to camp in the mornings, walking trails to look for more birds, mammals and local plants, and in the afternoons, take short drives to nearby areas looking for some of the endemic species. Our days are kept flexible to opportunities of nature, and to the interests of the group.
Accommodations both nights at the Backwoods Camp (B,L,D)

Thurs., Feb. 28 Goa / Mumbai / Highlights of the City
This morning, after breakfast you will be driven to the Goa airport to connect to your flight to Mumbai. On arrival at Mumbai, you will be met and driven to the Mirador (30 minutes from the airport). On arrival, check in at the Mirador. After freshening up, meet your guide and drive to South Mumbai (45 minutes) to start a day seeing the sights of Mumbai covering the Mani Bhavan (Mahatma Gandhi’s ex-residence), the buildings of South Mumbai, and the downtown area. After the tour, enjoy a meal at a carefully-selected restaurant to enjoy the food of Mumbai before returning to our hotel. Those who wish may extend their stay in Mumbai, for the rest it’s a final dinner, with departures the following day.
Accommodations at the The Mirador (B,L,D)

Fri., March 1 Mumbai / Elephanta Caves / Return Flights
We arrange transfers to the International Airport in Mumbai for you according to your flight schedule (B).  If flights schedules allow, we can offer an additional day-trip close to Mumbai, to a fabulous World Heritage site on an island in the Sea of Oman, Elephanta Caves. Here we find one of the most striking collections for Rock Art in India in a most spectacular setting. As flights are yet to be confirmed, we offer this at a modest additional cost for those who wish to go. (B,L)

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